Cut Fabrics for OESD’S Haunted House with the Klic-N-Kut


Use your Make-The-Cut software and Klic-N-Kut cutters to cut the fabrics for OESD’s Haunted House. The house is comprised of 15 separate pieces that are made up of freestanding lace and applique.  The finished size measures 8.5″ tall  and has a footprint of 6″ x 6″.  The hole in the bottom is sized for a tea light to project light in its windows.


  • Purple, Black, Light & Dark Grey Polyester Satin or Dupioni Silk
  • Yellow/Gold Polyester or Silk Organza
  • Black Isacord Embroidery Thread
  • OESD Black Medium Weight Tear-Away Embroidery Stabilizer was used for Satin or Silk
  • OESD Stabil-Stick Tear-Away used for Organza
  • Steam-A-Seam 2 Double Stick Fusible Web
  • 505 Temporary Adhesive Spray
  • Water-Soluble Stabilizer or Film Water Soluble Stabilizer



  • Maxx Air:  Force = 50; Offset = .75; Speed = 150; Passes = 1; Blade Height =25
  • Zing!:  Force = 65-90; Offset = .75; Speed = 9/10; Passes = 1-2; Blade Height = 25


  1. Each piece of the haunted house, when stitched out, is a combination of lace and fabric appliqué.  The first step is to make the fabric appliqué shapes that will be cut on the KNK and included in the design. Steps, using my Bernina Artista V6 software, are available as a PDF.  If you have a different software, hopefully my process will be an inspiration of what might be possible with your software also.
  2. Prepare fabrics for cutting
    1. Iron the Steam-A-Seam 2 to one side of the Black Stabilizer
    2. Remove the Steam-A-Seam 2 paper from the Black Stabilizer – this will leave one side of the Black Stabilizer sticky
    3. Iron the sticky side of the Black Stabilizer to the wrong side of the fabric
    4. Your fabric is now prepared for cutting
  3. Cut fabrics into appliqué shapes
    1. The cutting mat needs to be very sticky
    2. Place the fabric on the cutting mat with the Black Stabilizer side next to the mat and the fabric facing up
    3. Fabric is now ready for placement in the embroidery as an appliqué
  4. Embroidery steps
    1. Hoop the embroidery hoop with Water-Soluble Stabilizer or Film Water Soluble Stabilizer
    2. Fill the bobbin with the same thread that you are using in the needle
    3. Begin embroidering on the hooped Water-Soluble Stabilizer.
    4. The embroidery machine will automatically stop for the addition of an appliqué fabric shape
    5. Spray the Black Stabilizer side of the fabric with the 505 Temporary Adhesive
    6. Place the Black Stabilizer side of the fabric in the designated place in the embroidery design and continue sewing.  

Repeat the above steps for each piece in the design.  When complete, follow the directions in the pattern for washing away the Water-Soluble stabilizer, drying and assembling them into a haunted house.

This is a fun project, especially because the KNK Maxx Air and Zing cut all my fabric pieces perfectly to the size required by the embroidery design.  Being able to cut my applique shapes to the exact size needed with my KNK cutters has revolutionized the accuracy of my applique embroidery on the embroidery machine. 


Multi-Colored Vinyl Layered Designs

Multi-colored vinyl layered designs are easily made with the use of registration marks.  With either the use of KNK Studio software or Make The Cut software planning is easy.  This Eagle decal was designed in Make the Cut software and cut on the 15″ KNK Maxx Air.


Materials used were:

Cutting specifics: Red capped blade with a vinyl setting, 1 pass, and 25 post-it notes for setting blade height.

The following picture is a preview of the step-by-step directions that are included at the end of this post in PDF format.  Also included are the eagle files for you to give layering vinyl a try yourself.


The finished design measures 4.875″ tall by 5″ wide.

Step-by-Step Directions – Multi-color Vinyl Designs

Design Files  Eagle_Layered


Organize Your ‘Stuff’ with Vinyl

When I moved to Arizona we chose a utility billing plan that specified times that we could use major appliances economically, commonly known as ‘off peak’.  The problem was – I couldn’t remember what times I had agreed to.  So, after being reminded ‘umpteen’ times, I decided to write it on the wall above the washer and dryer.  My designs was created with Make the Cut software.  Then, my KNK Maxx Air was used to cut Oracle 631 vinyl from KNK USA.  (Force 23; 1 pass; Red blade; .35 Offset).  Font used for the words Laundry Room is Amienne.


It completely solved my question of ‘what time?” but also serves to tell guests when it is okay to do laundry.

Initially my laundry room had no cabinets, but when we remodeled the kitchen, those from the previous kitchen fit perfectly!  I was totally excited because I had left a basement with lots of storage behind. Surely the addition of these cabinets would be all I would need – but I kept noticing that there was 32″ from the top of the cabinets to the ceiling and I had stuff in the garage that I wasn’t happy storing when temperatures reached triple digits here in Arizona or I just wanted them stored in a handy place.  I measured the space and went on a search for ‘pretty boxes’ with lids to fill the space above the cabinets.  When taking measurements, it is important to note that most cabinets are configured on top like mine are.


Pretty boxes weren’t to be found, but I did find the perfect size in a craft color.  Each measures 15 1/2″ long X 9 1/4″ wide X 12″ high. They served the purpose, but certainly weren’t pretty.


I didn’t come up with a ‘pretty’ plan, but I did come up with a novel plan… I used Oracle 631 vinyl from KNK USA to create my own personal version of subway art.  (Force 23; 1 pass; Red blade; .35 Offset).


If you wonder how I got all that is written on the side of a box, in the box.  The answer is I can’t.  So I filled in with words that made me smile about or related to what is actually stored in the box.


The upside of this project is every time I go into my laundry room I have personal graffiti that brings back happy memories and a smile to my face.


Click on this link for Fonts Used in creating the graffiti.


This is the time of year that I often reflect on how happy I am to live in the U.S.A.   My plate stand was “calling” for a new plate for the season.  So for Memorial Day I created this plate, which will probably reside in the stand through the summer because I think it’s also very appropriate for the 4th of July and maybe even Labor Day, too.

Optimized-EaglePlate_1 Supplies:

The vinyl was cut on my 15″ KNK Maxx Air using a Red Tip Blade and my Make-the-Cut Software, Settings used were: F=28, Blade Offset = 35, Blade Height = 25 Post-It-Notes, Cut type = Knife Point.

The challenge for embellishing a plate with vinyl is usually in the placement, not the cutting. The following pictures illustrate my method of getting the vinyl exactly where I want it on the plate.

1. After cutting and weeding the vinyl, I cover it with Transfer Tape.  Next I cut away the tape that extends beyond the design, so I can visually see how it is going to fit and look when applied to the plate. Optimized-EaglePlate_2

2. The next step is to turn the masked vinyl over and turn down approximately 1″ of the vinyl liner at the top. Turn the vinyl back over with the right side up, and place the sticky side of the vinyl to the plate, matching the placement that I determined in the previous step.

Optimized-EaglePlate_3 3.  Now that the top edge is secured to the plate, I use one hand to slowly apply the vinyl, using a firm flat object for a secure, flat application without bubbles. At the same time with the other hand I pull on the vinyl liner, exposing more of the sticky side of the vinyl.

Optimized-EaglePlate_4 4. The final step for the center design is to remove the transfer tape.  I find it works best to pull it away at approximately a 45 degree angle.  The picture that follows is a close-up of the center design.


The last thing to do is apply the stars around the edge.  For equal spacing I made a stencil so I could mark placement with a Sharpie. This template is included in the free files of this design.  With the plate marked, placement of the stars is easy…and you have a finished plate to enjoy for years to come.


While still in a patriotic mood I saw these cute little patriotic owls on the Pink Pueblo website.  I fell in love with them and immediately set about deciding what to put them on.  I settled on a tray that is 19″ wide by 8″ tall. The inside measurement is 16″ x 5″.  The owl with the flag and the one with the hat are scaled to be 4.5″ tall.


Before actually looking at the cutting design I thought I would cut them from vinyl.   But when I looked at the cut design—that thought was out of the question because there were way too many pieces, as well as lots of layering.  So I settled on cardstock for everything but the stars and the saying on the bottom, which I cut from vinyl.

Vinyl Settings used were: F=28, Blade Offset = 35, Blade Height = 25 Post-It-Notes, Cut type = Knife Point.

Cardstock Settings used were: F=55, Blade Offset = 35, Blade Height = 25 Post-It-Notes, Cut type = Knife Point

The biggest change that I made to the design was to add a base file to adhere all the other pieces to.  It was a big missing piece in the files, but was remedied easily with my Make-the-Cut software.

I was totally wowed at the stars on the flag.  There are 50 of them, measuring .06″ each.  If I hadn’t cut and applied them, I would have never known how big .06″ is.  For perspective I photographed it with a penny. Aren’t they wonderful?  I love my KNK for the detail options it gives us.


Before gluing them to the tray, I sprayed them with an acrylic sealer.



Easel Card with Open Front

Optimized-Front_Open A friend was being honored with a special party to celebrate her 75th birthday.  I immediately thought the easel card would be great because she could look at it from a distance after the party.  I am especially fond of birthday cards that celebrate the number of years with large numbers, so I envisioned 75 standing up on the front, with the background cut away.  I didn’t find a template to use, so I used the KNK Studio software to design exactly what I was envisioning.

The number “75” is used in the steps that follow, but these same steps will apply to any design that you want to eliminate the background from on the front of an easel card.  The following picture outlines the relationships between the pieces of a standard easel card and how I applied them to my design.
Optimized-Plan&Layout An easel card can be any size. This one is 6″ square when folded and inserted into the envelope.  In the above diagram the purple portions are the card base with score lines shown in black. Traditionally, the front of the card is the same size as the base, glues to the portion marked with red arrow, and extends above the base folds.

Steps 1 through 4 below illustrate the process of determining the shape of the front of the card base.  “75” was laid on top of the card base and traced around, giving rounded corners on the two front edges.  The shape could be any shape you desire.  I used the shape of the rounded portion of the 5 for continuity when the card is closed.


Steps 5 through 9 below illustrate how the cut away background was achieved.  In Step 5, the “75” was laid on the card base for a visual of what the cutaway would look like.  In Step 6, the “75” is mirrored vertically on the base, outlining the portion to be cut away within the base section that will support the “75” when glued in place.  In Step 7 the base with the cutaway is complete.  Step 8 has the cutaway portion folded toward the front of the card.  Step 9 has the “75” glued to the cutaway portion of the base.


This picture is the back side of the card with the “75” sticking above the card.  The base was cut from a sold purple piece of cardstock, using MTC software on my 15″ Maxx Air.  The  purple floral paper was cut to the shape of the center 3 x 6″ section on the back as an additional design feature.


In the additional views of the card, the floral print paper was cut to the inside shape for a pleasing visual showing through behind the “75” creating depth to the card.


The message plate, with a message cut from vinyl,  also serves as a stop, holding the “75” in an upright position when the card is open. The picture below is the finished card, folded and ready to mail.