For the third year, the shop where I work is participating in the Row by Row Experience. Each of the participating shops creates an original pattern that is 9 1/2 inches by 36 1/2 inches and offers patterns and kits to create the row. This year the organizers have created an additional design which shops can purchase and make and sell kits for. The ninth row design includes a cute little car. We have decided to prepare a limited number of kits for this design in which we will provide the car that has been cut from fabric using the Zing Air.
This is what our version of the Ninth Row will look like:
The car was designed and cut using Make the Cut software.
Since we wanted to add a little ‘zip’ to our version of the Ninth Row, we picked a bright, multi-colored Batik print for the car fabric. This also makes each car just a little bit different.
Because the car is being included in a kit with fabric for the purchaser to applique onto the background, it was necessary to leave the protective paper liner on the Steam-A-Seam 2 Lite and to cut through the paper as well as the fabric. This required a bit longer blade and a little more force than cutting the fabric with the fused Steam-A-Seam 2 Lite.
If you look at the first picture in this post you will see that when you look in the windows of the car, you can see part of a picture of “the” castle rock – the namesake of the town where the shop is located. This was just a bit of whimsy in creating the sample row. The kits will not contain this extra added feature.
One of the many things that I enjoy about my 15″ KNK Maxx Air and the KNK Studio and Make the Cut software is that I can use them in combination with my other hobbies. For my post today, I combined some sewing techniques with the capabilities of the KNK cutter and software. I created a Valentine card with a fabric patchwork heart and vinyl lettering on the front. And a printed message on the inside. Materials Used:
Five cotton quilting fabrics with Valentine prints
I began by tracing a heart shape I like and sizing to the dimensions I wanted for my finished patchwork heart in KNK Studio. I then used the Ginsu Knife function to cut the heart shape into 5 pieces. A copy of the uncut heart shape was resized to a smaller heart for the “backing heart” and a larger heart for the “background heart” using the Transform/Outline function.
Before cutting the fabrics for the heart pieces, the fabrics were pressed and the Steam-A-Seam 2 fused to the wrong side of the fabric. The second piece of protective paper was removed from the Steam-A-Seam 2 and the wrong side of the fabric brayered to a very sticky mat for cutting. The outer pieces of the patchwork heart had been enlarged on the outer edge to provide additional fabric for wrapping to the back.
Once the heart pieces were cut, they were assembled into a heart shape and fused to a piece of muslin. To prepare the heart for decorative stitching, the fused pieced heart was layered on top of the Battilizer batting and the Sheer Mesh cut away stabilizer placed on the bottom of the stack. Decorative stitches were selected and sewn over the “seams” in the patchwork heart. The “backing heart” (smaller solid heart) was cut from white cardstock. The backing heart was centered on the wrong side of the pieced and stitched heart. The outline of the backing heart was traced on the sheet mesh stabilizer. Small scissors were used to trim the stabilizer and batting on the marked line. It was necessary to remove some of the decorative stitching to be able to trim the stabilizer and batting. The “Okay To Wash-It” adhesive was used on the bobbin threads of the decorative stitches just inside the marked line to keep them from unraveling when the stitches outside of the line were trimmed. “Fabric-Tac” adhesive was used to glue the backing heart to the wrong side of the heart unit. Fabric-Tac was used to glue the fabric edge to the backing heart as the fabric was folded to the back. A “background heart” (larger solid heart) was cut from the brown cardstock. The background heart was centered behind the completed patchwork heart and attached using double sided tape.
The card shown at the beginning of this post was created by folding an 8 1/2″ x 11″ piece of pink cardstock in half to form a top fold card. The assembled patchwork heart and background heart were attached to the left side of the front of the card with double sided tape. The words “Your Love” were cut from brown vinyl and placed on the right side of the front of the card. The message for the inside of the card was printed using Microsoft Word and attached to the fold on the inside of the card with Fabri-Tac adhesive. The font used for the card is Hancock.
Use the links below to download files for creating this card. Enjoy!
Holidays bring to mind many kinds of treats. My creative friend, Cherrie, has partnered with her KNK Maxx to create 2 different boxes for giving food treats. She embroidered kitchen towels with recipes for different chocolate treats, made the treats and fabric covered boxes to present the treats and towels as unique and special gifts. The files for the boxes were created in the KNK Studio software.
Cut fabric using the same file as for the poster board.
Align the cut fabric and poster board pieces and adhere together following the direction included with the HeatNBond Ultrahold.
This picture shows the cut poster board and fabric pieces for a Truffle Box. The word “Truffles” is also cut from fabric and will be adhered to the box lid by ironing after the fabric has been ironed to the poster board. The cut fabric pieces have been placed on the HeatNBond backing sheet to preserve the adhesive until the box parts are assembled.
Fold box on score lines with tabs to inside. Glue tabs in place with liquid glue.
Add self adhesive Velcro dot to hold lid flap closed.
For pie box, use poster board settings to cut the clear insert from an office supply report cover. Place clear insert between poster board and fabric when adhering fabric to poster board. NOTE: Plastic insert will melt if touched with iron. Use vinyl for the lettering on the pie box.
Click on the following link for the box files generously shared by Cherrie.
Use your Make-The-Cut software and Klic-N-Kut cutters to cut the fabrics for OESD’s Haunted House. The house is comprised of 15 separate pieces that are made up of freestanding lace and applique. The finished size measures 8.5″ tall and has a footprint of 6″ x 6″. The hole in the bottom is sized for a tea light to project light in its windows.
Purple, Black, Light & Dark Grey Polyester Satin or Dupioni Silk
Yellow/Gold Polyester or Silk Organza
Black Isacord Embroidery Thread
OESD Black Medium Weight Tear-Away Embroidery Stabilizer was used for Satin or Silk
OESD Stabil-Stick Tear-Away used for Organza
Steam-A-Seam 2 Double Stick Fusible Web
505 Temporary Adhesive Spray
Water-Soluble Stabilizer or Film Water Soluble Stabilizer
Each piece of the haunted house, when stitched out, is a combination of lace and fabric appliqué. The first step is to make the fabric appliqué shapes that will be cut on the KNK and included in the design. Steps, using my Bernina Artista V6 software, are available as a PDF. If you have a different software, hopefully my process will be an inspiration of what might be possible with your software also.
Prepare fabrics for cutting
Iron the Steam-A-Seam 2 to one side of the Black Stabilizer
Remove the Steam-A-Seam 2 paper from the Black Stabilizer – this will leave one side of the Black Stabilizer sticky
Iron the sticky side of the Black Stabilizer to the wrong side of the fabric
Your fabric is now prepared for cutting
Cut fabrics into appliqué shapes
The cutting mat needs to be very sticky
Place the fabric on the cutting mat with the Black Stabilizer side next to the mat and the fabric facing up
Fabric is now ready for placement in the embroidery as an appliqué
Hoop the embroidery hoop with Water-Soluble Stabilizer or Film Water Soluble Stabilizer
Fill the bobbin with the same thread that you are using in the needle
Begin embroidering on the hooped Water-Soluble Stabilizer.
The embroidery machine will automatically stop for the addition of an appliqué fabric shape
Spray the Black Stabilizer side of the fabric with the 505 Temporary Adhesive
Place the Black Stabilizer side of the fabric in the designated place in the embroidery design and continue sewing.
Repeat the above steps for each piece in the design. When complete, follow the directions in the pattern for washing away the Water-Soluble stabilizer, drying and assembling them into a haunted house.
This is a fun project, especially because the KNK Maxx Air and Zing cut all my fabric pieces perfectly to the size required by the embroidery design. Being able to cut my applique shapes to the exact size needed with my KNK cutters has revolutionized the accuracy of my applique embroidery on the embroidery machine.
I had a lot of help getting ready for this post. When I decided what I was going to post, I realized that the week prior to the post I would be visitng my friend Lynn K. She invited me to tag along to her local paper crafting group meeting. Knowing that there would be a vast resource of creative talent at the meeting, I asked if they might be interested in helping me with my project for this post. They agreed to help me. Thank you, ladies of the Kitchen Table Scraps group, for your creativity and generosity in sharing your ideas to help me with this post. Your boxes are FANTASTIC!!!
Their part in this project was to embellish/decorate boxes that I would provide for them. I designed the boxes using my KNK Studio software and my Make the Cut software, prepared the papers, cut the pieces on my 15″ Maxx Air, and packed them in my suitcase. Lynn K was a great help getting the boxes assembled prior to the meeting. The group usually meets at a scrapbook store but since the local schools were on spring break, the store had scheduled classes for kids that week. Sandy McCauley, who is also a member of the group, graciously volunteered to host the meeting at her home. Thanks, Sandy!
These are the boxes the ladies could choose from to decorate. The boxes are about 6″ long, 4 1/2″ wide and 2″ high.
As you can see, there was a variety of colors and materials as well as styles of tops. Boxes were made from laminated layers of various cardstocks, scrapbook papers, and fabrics. The ladies were free to use any decorations and/or embellishments they wanted and, after allowing me to photograph them and their boxes, the boxes would belong to them.
At the end of the day, which was a lot of fun, each lady had completed her box. Lynn K and I had decorated her boxes prior to the meeting to give the ladies some ideas. You might recognize Lynn’s box with the rabbit and the chicks from her post last Wednesday. Here is a collage of the ladies and their finished boxes. The name tags were for my benefit since this was my first time meeting most of them. My name tag read “Cupcake Judy”.
The following pictures are close-ups of the ladies’ boxes. Sandy’s antique furniture piece with the mirror was the perfect place to photograph the boxes so you could see the backs as well as the sides and tops.
As you can see in the photo above, Sharon added some extra embellishments to the inside of her box. A fun surprise for the recipient for the box when they have emptied it.
Now that you have seen some of the end results, lets go back to the beginning to show you the steps to get the boxes and tops ready for embellishing.
When I decided to make egg shaped boxes, I wanted to use a paper/material that had more body to it than the heaviest cardstock that I could find. I spent quite a bit of time looking for very heavy double sided cardstock. I didn’t find any that was sturdy enough. I made some trial boxes out of the heaviest ones that I found but still wasn’t happy with them. Finally, I decided to try to laminate cardstock to other cardstock or scrapbook papers or even fabrics using the heat fusible material called Heat n Bond. The test pieces of laminated papers/fabrics worked like I wanted. Depending on the weight of the papers or fabrics used, it was sometimes necessary to add an additional layer of cardstock in the middle of the “sandwich”. Also, when a light colored fabric is being fused to a darker colored cardstock, adding a layer of light weight white cardstock between the fabric and the dark cardstock gives the resulting laminated piece extra body as well as keeping the fabric colors true. Most fabrics won’t add much body to the finished “sandwich”.
The following picture shows the layers for a “sandwich” with fabric, cardstock, and an inner layer of light weight white cardstock. In the photo the Heat n Bond is backed by a layer of white paper. Once fused to the cardstock or fabric, the paper is removed and the remaining Heat n Bond is transparent.
The Teflon sheet is a precaution to keep any Heat n Bond from getting on the ironing surface. I also use a second Teflon sheet on top of the papers and fabrics as I press to protect the iron and papers. Ironing directly on the papers can sometimes cause the surface of the paper to become shiny. Some papers will warp when they are heated by the iron. Ironing them (under a Teflon sheet or a press cloth) prior to fusing them to the Heat n Bond can help. I used a piece of 1″ thick particle board as my ironing surface since ironing boards tend to be soft and uneven. Use the settings given on the Heat n Bond package.
When the “sandwich” has been created there a couple of extra steps that will help assure cutting success. Even though I use a very sticky mat, I always tape my “sandwich” to my mat on all four sides as well as brayering it down securely.
If I am using a patterned paper such as the plaid paper in the photo above, I will create my own “Alignment Mark” on the paper so I know exactly where to set my origin. Two 12″ x 12″ “sandwiches” are needed to cut the pieces for one box. Thus if I mark both “sandwiches” in exactly the same place and set my origin there for cutting both of them, I can have the pattern on the sides of the box match when they are assembled. The sides of the box bottom and top are too long to cut from one 12″ piece of paper. They have been split into two pieces and must be joined to go around the whole shape.The files have been set up in such a way to assure that the pieces will match when using patterned papers if you follow the steps as outlined. If you are cutting a “sandwich” and it is desirable to cut with the the patterned paper against the mat rather than facing up, you can make a measured “Alignment Mark” on the paper that will be on top. I usually make my mark about 3/8″ in from the two outside edges of the corner so I have room for the tape and am not cutting right up to the edge. Just be sure that the patterned paper is oriented in the same direction when you draw your “Alignment Marks”.
After the mat with the paper has been positioned in the cutter, the origin can be set exactly on the marked spot. I was cutting from the MTC software and using the “Knife Point” option. The picture shows the tip of the blade lined up with the “Alignment Mark” on the paper.
Beause the laminated “sandwiches” are thicker than most cardstock, cutting will usually require more than one pass. When I cut the pieces for the boxes in the first picture, the settings varied from those recommended for heavy cardstock to those for chipboard. I check the “Suggested Cut Settings” section of my Maxx Air manual whenver I am going to cut a material that I am not familiar with. For the “sandwiches” that include a fabric layer, I cut with the fabric layer up, make the first cut with the fabric blade, and make the second and third cuts (if needed) with a thick material blade. To do this, I do not use the multiple cut option but rather, let the cutter stop after each cutting pass to check the material to see if additional passes are needed. This gives me the opportunity to change the blade also.
When the pieces are cut and scored, you are ready to begin assembling the box. There are four pieces for the box bottom and four for the box top – a outer and inner bottom or top, and two pieces for the sides. If you are cutting a box that has a plain (no window or lattice) top, I suggest that you use sticky notes to label the egg shaped pieces since there will be four different sizes and it is easy to get them mixed up. For the boxes with a window or lattice in the top it is easier to recognize the different pieces. There are score lines included in the cutting files. I decided to do the scoring manually since the material ended up being so thick. This picture shows a box ready to be assembled.
The tabs have been folded on the score lines of three of the side pieces. Additonally, one of box bottom side pieces has been curved by pulling it between my fingers and my thumb. Curving the side pieces prior to gluing makdes it easier to keep them in place while the glue “grabs”. The green with the bunnies is cotton fabric and it takes more glue and more time for a fabric-to-paper bond to hold than a paper-to-paper-join. On the cutting files there are labels or notes for the box bottom and box top side pieces designating them as “wide end” or “narrow end”. One of the tabs for the “wide end” side piece has one notch in it while one of the tabs for the “narrow end” has two notches in it. These notched tabs should be place at the center of either end of the egg shape. This allows the tabs to fit together without overlapping and without gaps to form an even surface for gluing down the inner egg shape which will conceal the tabs. If desired, you can mark the center points of the box bottom and top as a guide for placement.
I glue the “wide end” side in place first and then add the “narrow end” side beginning where the two side pieces meet. It will work either way. I glue the tabs in place first and once they are secure I glue the overlaps on the sides to join them rather than joining the two side pieces and working with one long strip. This is what the box bottom and top look like with the “wide end” side pieces in place.
After the “narrow end” side pieces are in place, if the box has a window in the top, I add a piece of thin plastic (you can cut it by hand or use the cutting file for the “inner box bottom”) as the “glass” in the window before gluing the inner top piece in place. Yes, the glue looks messy but the inner top piece will conceal that. If the box has a lattice top, I don’t add the plastic or inner piece until the embellishments are in place so the ends of anything woven in the lattice can be covered.
When complete the box looked like this.
The box was now ready for some embellishments. Thank you, Arlene, for my adorable bunny!
The box cut from the plaid paper shown in the tutorial above was embellished as in this photo.
This is a photo of another box I made and gave to my friends at my favorite sewing store. Of course I filled it with some dark chocolate candies before giving it to them.
A few words about the cutting files. There are two sets of files. One is for solid colored or “no match” materials. The other is for patterend materials – cardstocks or fabrics – that you want to match when they are asembled. Files for all of the styles of tops are included in both sets. There are notes in each of the files which are intended to clarify their use along with the information in the tutorial above. I will be happy to answer your questions via private email. Just post a comment on this post that you need help and I will answer you privately.
Because papers and cardstock sometimes don’t have very attractive edges when cut – especially a thick, layered “sandwich” – and tend to break when bent or folded, there are often many “opportunities for embellishments” other than just the top of these egg shaped boxes.
I hope you’ve enjoyed seeing all of the creativity of the Kitchen Table Scraps ladies and will have fun creating some boxes of your own.
I’m hijacking Judy’s post to thank her AGAIN for a fabulous project for my craft group to do! Also, I redid my box on Saturday night because I was rushed a bit the day everyone was here. Plus, my son’s GF, Gabriella, decorated one, too! So, here are two more ideas: