Cork Coasters with HTV – A Simple DIY Hostess Gift

Here’s a quick, easy, and inexpensive project that is also very practical. These cute little cork coasters with HTV would be great for a hostess or other small gift.

Cork Coasters with HTV

I bought some cork squares using my half-off coupon at JoAnns. I think my price was around $1.50 for 4. You could also buy a sheet of cork and cut them yourself.

Materials:

  1. Cork
  2. ThermoFlex Plus
  3. Simple SVG design
  4. Iron
  5. Red-capped blade
  6. Make-The-Cut

Settings for KNK Zing:

  1. Force – 18
  2. Multi-cut – 1
  3. Speed – 10

Bike Coaster with Glass

Steps:

  1. Import SVG from MTC Gallery or other source
  2. Mirror Image
  3. Cut and weed HTV
  4. Place onto coaster, vinyl side down
  5. Place piece of paper, cloth, or Teflon sheet on image so that it is between iron and HTV carrier.
  6. Use hot, dry iron to apply according to manufacturers instructions
  7. Peel HTV clear sheet off and repeat

Boy and Girl Bike Coaster

 

 

 

 

 

DIY Pastry Cloth with HTV – ThermoFlex Plus on Pie Cloth

DIY Pastry Cloth with HTV

DIY Pastry Cloth with HTV

I always use a pastry cloth when I roll out a pie crust. I am amazed how many people don’t use one, because I end up with a mess if I try to make a crust without my trusty cloth. The cloth I have been using for years is starting to look pretty bad, and although it is still functional, I decided it would be nice to make myself a fresh one.

DIY Pastry Cloth with HTV

Time for a new Pastry Cloth

Materials:

  1. 100 percent cotton “utility” fabric
  2. Rick-Rack (optional)
  3. Sewing machine
  4. ThermoFlex Plus
  5. Red Capped Blade
  6. MTC
  7. Iron or Heat Press

Settings for KNK Zing:

  1. Force – 16
  2. Speed – 10
  3. MultiCut – 1

Steps:

  1. Wash and dry fabric.
  2. Cut or tear fabric to size (20″ X 20″ works well)
  3. Finish edge by serging or hemming. I wanted a hemmed edge and followed these instructions to make mitered corners. Add rick-rack if desired.
  4. Import design into MTC.
  5. Mirror Design
  6. Cut HTV and weed
  7. Center on fabric, vinyl side down.
    1. To help with centering, fold fabric in half and crease with iron or heat press. Repeat by folding the other direction, so that you have two crossed creases to give you guides for centering.
    2. For the outer circles in my design, I also folded the HTV and put creases in the transfer sheet. I then lined up the 4 creases in the transfer sheet with the 4 creases in the fabric to insure the large circles were centered.
    3. I measured the distance between the two circles to make sure they were spaced evenly, and used pieces of masking tape to hold in place so that it did not move when I placed in my heat press.

      Crease, Measure, Tape

      Crease, Measure, Tape

  8. Use iron or heat press to adhere HTV to fabric, according to manufacturer’s instructions.

I researched to see if I could find any information on whether or not the HTV is food safe. I found nothing to indicate that it was not, but am not sure. My guess is that it is as safe as many plastics used with food. However, I may use the back side of the cloth just to be on the safe side.

DIY Pastry Cloth with Matching Dropcloth Towel

DIY Pastry Cloth with Matching Dropcloth Towel

 

 

Applying HTV to a Vinyl Tote

I actually made something just for me today! I created a cute laptop bag by applying HTV to a reversible vinyl tote that I picked up at our local Walmart.

Apply HTV to Reversible Tote

I’d seen these online but was a bit nervous about using my heat press on a vinyl bag. However, by starting with a low temperature and “inching” my way up until I got the results I wanted, I was able to successfully adhere the vinyl without melting the bag. I made a couple of mistakes through the process, but nothing disastrous.

Materials:

  1. Vinyl tote. I found mine at Walmart, but have seen there various places.
  2. ThermoFlex Plus
  3. GlitterFlex Ultra
  4. Red or Blue Capped Blade
  5. Parchment Paper
  6. Make The Cut!
  7. Heat Press

Settings for KNK Zing:

  1. Speed – 10
  2. Force – 18 for ThermoFlex, 50 for GlitterFlex
  3. Mulitcut – 1 for ThermoFlex, 1 or 2 for GlitterFlex

Steps:

  1. Open design in, or import into Make The Cut!
  2. Don’t forget to MIRROR your design before cutting.
  3. Cut and weed vinyl.
  4. Place parchment paper inside your bag so that it doesn’t stick together when you press it. If you forget (like I did) you can carefully pull it back apart while it is still warm.
  5. Carefully place the bag on your heat press. You might need to use a pressing pillow, folded cloth, or other item to build up under the area you want to press. (I did not do this on the first press and was not able to get a good even press.) I used a block of wood for this. The thickness of the wood kept the heat press from snapping shut, which simply meant I had to hold the press down and manually apply the pressure.I added a piece of wood under the heat press pad.
  6. Make sure you use a Teflon or other protective sheet between your heat press platen and your HTV.
  7. I wasn’t sure what temperature to use so started at 200 degrees for 17 seconds. Close up of textureThis was not nearly hot enough, so I increased the temperature gradually until I got good results at 300 degrees for about 15 seconds. I would suggest trying first at a lower temperature since your heat press may differ some from mine. Make sure that you see the texture of your bag through the vinyl before you peel off the clear transfer sheet.
  8. If you are adding another color or glitter HTV, repeat the process for the next layer. When you are done and the transfer sheet is removed, press one more time with the Teflon sheet in place.

There are a couple of places on my bag that got pressed a little too much and it flattened the texture of the bag. This is from pressing unevenly, across the handles. After I used the block of wood to raise the portion I was pressing, I no longer had this problem. Since I made it for myself, I won’t worry about these imperfections since they really aren’t noticeable.

Love my HTV vinyl bag.

 

 

Create Faux Rhinestones Using DecoSparkle

Create Faux Rhinestones with DecoSparkleI’ve been tempted to add rhinestones to baby bodysuits, but I didn’t want to take a chance of baby putting them in her mouth. So instead, I decided to try some faux rhinestones using ™DecoSparkle heat transfer vinyl.

It’s pretty simple to make your own faux rhinestones using Make the Cut software. If you prefer, you can use my free Blackeyed Susan file.

Materials:

  1. Infant Bodysuit
  2. ThermFlex Plus HTV
  3. DecoSparkle HTV
  4. Make The Cut 
  5. Red Capped Blade
  6. Iron or Heat Press

Settings for KNK Zing:

  1. Force – 18
  2. Speed – 10
  3. Multicut – 1 or 2

Steps :

  1. Use my free file or
  2. Open or Import file in Make the Cut. Make sure you reverse your design if you have any text.
  3. Select portion of design that you want to add “rhinestones” to
  4. Right Click > Shape Magic > Rhinestones
  5. When box pops up, choose size and spacing. You can choose either Fill Shape or Outline. Click on Delete Original.Rhinestones Make the Cut Box
  6. Select Preview on Mat to make sure it looks the way you want it to.
  7. Don’t worry if some things don’t look exactly the way you want them to because you will be able to adjust that.
  8. RhinestonesClick Accept.
  9. Select “rhinestones” design. Ctrl > P to split. Now you can adjust/delete/add any “rhinestones” as needed.
  10. Now use your heat press or iron to apply HTV according to manufacturers instructions. (Make sure iridescent HTV is applied last if you are layering, as you cannot layer on top of this vinyl.)

Our little princess loves her new bodysuit with the faux rhinestone bling!!

Creat Faux Rhinestones

 

Layering ThermoFlex Plus Over Inkjet Heat Transfer

Ever have one of those days? It’s 11:50 p.m. and I just finished the one simple project I wanted to accomplish today.  I made my hubby a T-shirt by layering ThermoFlex Plus over Inkjet Heat Transfer. Simple…. right?

I made SEVERAL errors in this simple task, but managed to end up with a shirt I was happy with. I simply took my time to think through each goof and then moved on. Perhaps some of my mistakes will help you avoid the same pitfalls.

Layer Inkjet Heat Transfer and ThermoFlex Plus

  • Materials:
  1. White cotton T-Shirt
  2. ThermoFlex Plus
  3. Inkjet Heat Transfer Sheet (I like Lesley Riley’s Transfer Artist Paper)
  4. Make The Cut Software
  5. Red Capped Blade
  6. Blue Capped Blade
  7. Iron or Heat Press
  • KNK Zing settings for cutting ThermoFlex Plus:
  1. I prefer the blue capped blade (Offset .35), but you can use the red if you prefer (.25)
  2. Force – 20
  3. Multicut – 1 or 2
  4. Speed – 10
  • KNK Zing settings for cutting Inkjet Heat Transfer Paper:
  1. I like the red capped blade for this (.25)
  2. Force – Depends on your paper, mat, and blade. I used around 50.
  3. Multicut – 2
  • Steps for Inkjet Heat Transfer:
  1. Import > Pixel Trace the design for your Inkjet Heat Transfer into MTC. I imported a map which I had drawn, but you could trace one (just make sure you have the legal right to use it).
  2. Brevort Lake Shirt Import Set “Threshold” at about 250, and make sure “Texturize Path” and “Blackout Path” are both checked. Click on [Apply Changes]. Import > Finish Tracing
  3. Make sure you MIRROR IMAGE.
  4. You will probably want to do a shadow layer. Edit (or right click) > Shape Magic > Shadow Layer. I like to increase the shadow enough so that all the text is going to be cut out in one piece. Select the original cut lines along with the shadow layer and Weld (Ctrl/W)
  5. Go to Print Options and make sure that “Show Paper on Mat”, “Show Reg Marks on Mat”, and “Print Reg Marks” are all checked.
  6. I highly recommend doing a “Print Preview”. I wasted two pieces of Heat Transfer Paper because I didn’t.  (My mistake numbers 1 and 2)
  7. Print. I have had best luck using my Epson printer which has pigment ink, as opposed to my HP which has dye ink. I think either can be used, but the dye ink may run and/or fade with washing.
  8. Adhere your printed paper to the cutting mat. Look carefully at your screen to be sure your paper is oriented the same way it shows on the screen. (My mistake numbers 3 and 4) The good thing is that if you realize when it starts cutting that you fed it in wrong, just stop cutting, fix your mistake and start over. Even if you have cut into your design slightly, it probably won’t matter if you are careful.
  9. Remove from mat.
  10. Apply to garment according to manufacturers instructions. Make sure you check for correct temperature and time. My Inkjet Transfer Paper and the ThermoFlex Plus require different settings.
  11. Heat Transfer Shirt Small pieces can be difficult to place. I found it easiest to get them in place and stick them down with masking tape or a piece of used backing from HTV. That allowed me to get the garment into the heat press without the piece accidentally moving out of place. I then removed the sticky backing before placing my teflon sheet and closing the heat press.
  12. Peel Peel off paper.
  • Steps for ThermoFlex Plus:
  1. Import design or open in Make the Cut. Make sure you mirror it. (I wanted a distressed font which I had used successfully on another, bigger project. My mistake number 5. It was way too much detail for this size. I had now wasted two sheets of Inkjet Heat Transfer Paper and a piece of ThermoFlex Plus.) The font I ended up with worked great.
  2. Cut design and weed out extra vinyl.
  3. 20160728_233450 Apply to garment according to manufacturers instructions.

I have found that it’s best to let the Inkjet Heat Transfer set into your garment for few days before washing. However, I will probably wash mine tomorrow as I really would like the background image to fade just a bit. That’s one of the reasons I decided to use the Inkjet for the background and the ThermoFlex for the top layer.