Print and Cut Valentine Card – Elephants in Love

We are half way through January, which means it’s time for me to think of Valentine projects. I don’t make a lot of cards, but thought I’d try one of my JPGs as a simple “print and cut” Valentine Card. Since elephants seem to be popular right now, I decided to use my “Elephants in Love” file.

Elephants in Love Valentine Card

For this project, I printed out the entire design for the background, and then imported as a pixel trace and cut just the elephants. I used hot glue to adhere the elephants to the background, giving the card a 3-D effect.

Materials:

  • Card stock
  • “Elephants in Love” or file of your choice. (If you’d like to purchase this file for $.40, follow link and use coupon code KNK40 until the end of this month.)
  • Red Capped Blade
  • Printer
  • Hot glue
  • Make-The-Cut software

Settings for Zing:

  • Force – 100 (will vary with weight of card stock)
  • Speed – 10
  • Multi-cut – 1 or 2

Steps:

  • Print design on card stock
  • Cut to desired size
  • Score fold line
  • Import > Pixel Trace and adjust settings to capture the portion of design you want to cut. Make sure to tick Texturize Path and Blackout Path. My other settings were: Threshold 136, Despeck 182, and Resample x.50 s. Don’t be afraid to tweak these settings to get the results you want.
  • Complete Print and Cut as described in the Make-The-Cut manual. Here are a few things to remember:
  1. Adjust your mat size to match your paper size.
  2. Go to Print Options and tick Print Registration Marks.
  3. Go to Print Set-Up and make sure your page orientation is set correctly.
  4. Now, look at Print Preview to make sure things look the way you want them to print. (I also set my printer software to do Print Preview just to make sure I don’t get any surprises when I print.) Double-check your orientation, page size, image quality, etc. in your printer software before you print.
  • After printing, adhere your printed paper to your mat. Insert into your Zing, making sure the orientation matches what you see on the screen. Set Origin so that the laser lines up with the corner of your paper. (Refer to manual if you are not sure about this.)Set Origin
  • Select Finished, and then Cut. The mat and blade holder will move so that the laser is close to the first registration mark. (If it does not end up close to the mark that is represented by a flashing red dot on the screen, you may have the mat size or orientation set incorrectly. If this is the case fix what is not right and re-set your Origin.) Use your arrow keys to move the light directly on top of the registration mark.

Move Laser to Registration Mark

  • You might want to decrease the number for Steps as you get closer to the registration mark to increase your accuracy when moving toward the mark. (If you look closely in the photo above, you can see where my laser light ended up before I moved it with the arrows.)
  • Click Next to advance to the next registration mark and use arrow keys again as needed. Do the same for the next arrow. The cutting process will begin.
  • Remove your cut image from the mat and use a dab of hot glue to adhere to background card.

 

A Touch of Magic

Last week on Thursday and Friday the store I work for hosted a two day sewing event showcasing products by Husqvarna Viking and Jenny Haskins.  The theme for the event was “A Touch of Magic”.  My dear friend Lynn had sent me a Valentine gift made using a miniature paper coffee cup with a lid and that inspired me to purchase some of the cups to make favors for each of the persons attending this event.  Using the Magic theme, I created these cups.

Finished-Optimized

Materials Used:

Smooth cardstock in white and colors

Holographic vinyl in silver

White iridescent yarn

5mm thick white Silly Winks Foam Sheet

Woodpile brand Slim Sticks from a craft store

4 oz Paper Poly Hot Cups and Lids from Webstaurantstore.com

Flower pins created using nylon organza, Jenny Haskins’ Krinkle Magic, rayon embroidery threads, and jewelry finding pins

Alcohol Inks

Double sided scrapbooking tape

White craft glue

Hot glue

Fabri-Tac glue

Machines Used:

KNK 15″ Maxx Air and KNK Force

Colored cardstocks were cut on the KNK Force using a Standard Material Red Cap blade, a blade tension of 3, 2 passes, a starting depth of 110, an ending depth of 120, a cutting speed of 30, a blade offset of .25, and an overcut of .45

White cardstock was printed on an inkjet printer and cut on the KNK 15″ Maxx Air via Make The Cut Print-n-Cut.  Blade used – Standard Material Red Cap, Force – 50, Speed – 65, 2 passes

Silver holographic vinyl was cut on the KNK 15″ Maxx Air with a Standard Material Red Cap blade at a force of 20, and a speed of 65 with one pass.

Project Creation:

The pieces used to create the cups are shown in this photo:

Pieces-Optimized As seen in the first photo, cups were made in two different color ways: pink and purple.  The flowers were created on the embroidery machine as three different layers, steamed to cause the Krinkle Magic to shrink, stacked and sewn together on the machine, and a jewelry finding pin hot glued to the back. The larger pieces of card stock were used to cover the outside of the cup.  The narrow piece of cardstock with the vinyl lettering is the band placed over the larger piece of cardstock.  Cardstock was glued to the cup with white glue.  The octagonal piece was cut from the 5mm sheet of foam and colored with alcohol ink.  That was hot glued to the seam where the smaller cardstock band was joined.  A slit was cut in the foam and the pin on the flower inserted into the slit so the flower could be easily removed from the cup and worn.

The scalloped circles with the printing on them were created using the Make the Cut software and used the Print-N-Cut function.  These were placed on the tops of the lids with double sided adhesive tape.

Cup Tops-Optimized

The “magic wands” in the cups are the slim sticks dyed with alcohol inks.  Iridescent yarn was threaded through a hole in the end of the stick, shredded with a toothbrush, glued in place with Fabri-Tac glue and two silver holographic vinyl stars placed back to back for the top.

A total of 40 people signed up for the event.  I made 48 cups so each attendee and the presenters and helpers would each have one.

All48-Optimized

Of course the cups were filled with chocolate candies as an extra added treat.

Thanks to Lynn for her inspiration and sharing her files for the cup covers and bands.

 

Print and Cut Shower Invitation

Shower Invitation Created with Zing and MTCIt seems that many of us have been busy making cards or other paper crafts lately.  I too, have gotten into my paper stash to make an invitation for a family baby shower I’m planning for my daughter. I was able to use my Zing with MTC’s Print and Cut to put a scalloped edge around the invitation and add holes to thread ribbon through. I also used a pen in the Zing to address the envelopes.

  • invitation for tutorial 2Materials:
  1. White premium card stock
  2. Patterned paper for background
  3. Ribbon
  4. Printer
  5. Red Capped Blade
  6. Pen and Pen Holder (I don’t have a pen holder so use a little foam mounting tape around the pen.)
  7. Free MTC file
  8. Invitation Design
  9. Envelopes
  • Zing Settings for Invitation:
  1. Speed:10
  2. Force: About 50 – 70 (check MTC manual)
  3. Offset: .25
  • Envelopes Addressed Using KNK Zing with PenZing Settings for Addressing Envelopes:
  1. Speed:10 (slower for more ink on paper, faster for less)
  2. Force: 20 (depends on pen)
  3. Offset: 0
  4. Blade Height: 25 Post it Notes
  • Steps for Invitation:
  1. Create the invitation design. I designed my invitation in Inkscape and put a rectangle around the design so that the rectangle is bigger than the finished invitation. I then exported it as a PNG before importing into MTC. (You can download the SVG here if you’d like to use my basic format. )
  2. Go to Import > Pixel Trace to import design.  Adjust “Threshold” to around 250 – 255. Click on “Texturize” and “Blackout”. Put your print on its own layer. (You can use my “Print Layer” as an example. Then turn my Print Layer off or delete it.)
  3. Set your “Printer Options”. Make sure that it is set to “Show Paper on Mat”, “Show Reg Marks”, and “Print Reg Marks”.
  4. If you are not familiar with MTC’s print and cut, please refer to your manual and/or videos.
  5. Make sure all layers are turned on and align horizontally and vertically. Check that the Rectangle lines up with the outside of the print design. This will insure that your registration marks for your “Print Layer” and “Cut Layer” will be in the same place. This is very important to make sure the scallop cuts where you want it to.
  6. Turn off “Rectangle Layer” and “Cut Layer”. Print the “Print Layer”
  7. Place printed design on mat and insert into Zing. Turn off the “Print Layer” and turn on other two layers.
  8. Follow instructions to complete Print and Cut.
  9. Use Zing or other method to cut backing paper and place ribbon holes to line up with ribbon holes in invitation.
  10. Thread ribbon through holes and tie to secure back to invitation.
  • Steps for Envelope:Envelopes addressed with Zing
  1. Adhere envelope to mat with flap open.
  2. Choose desired font in MTC and complete address.
  3. Put pen into pen holder and place in Zing. Adjust settings. Use “Knife Point” setting and set origin to where you want to your text to start. “Cut” and watch your Zing address your envelope perfectly.

Print and cut takes a little bit of practice if you’ve never tried it. Be patient and don’t worry if you don’t get it right the first time. It works great once you get used to it and is well worth the effort to learn!

 

 

Tag, KNK is “IT”

A friend at work has a package of commercially prepared cardstock sheets that are perforated into 18 small scalloped tags on each letter size sheet.  She asked me to help her find a template so she could print these tags with some text and a small graphic.  I was able to find and download the template as well as figure out how to place the text and graphic like she wanted.  I wondered how many times the tags on those perforated sheets would become separated/detached/torn on their journey through a printer.  Also when using the template, it is necessary to populate each tag separately.  Even when using the copy and paste functions that becomes a tedious task.  And if you really only wanted to print 5 tags, once you removed them from the sheet, running that sheet through the printer again is all but impossible.  The solution to the dilemma?  Why, my 15″ KNK Maxx Air and my Make the Cut software using the wonderful Print and Cut function!!!  Here is a picture of the tag I created.  And, I was able to cut 30 tags from a letter size sheet of cardstock instead of 18!

Tag-Optimized

Materials Used:

White 8 1/2″ x 11″ cardstock

Settings:

Machine:  15″ KNK Maxx Air

Blade:  Red Cap Standard Material,  Force:  50,  Speed:  80,  2 Passes,  Print and Cut

Instructions/Comments:

My original intent was to use the MTC pixel trace function with the tag outline from a screen capture.  However, the screen capture image was such poor quality that the trace would have required much remedial work.  Creating the shape from scratch was much quicker with more accurate results.  I knew the size of the tag was 2″ long by 1 1/4″ wide – not very big.  I started with a rectangle and welded circles to that to create the scalloped top edge.  A hole for hanging was added using the Boolean Join function.

The graphic was downloaded from the Internet, saved as a PNG file, and used as Texture on the tag.  The font was chosen and words added just like I wanted them. I thought I was all set and filled up the page by duplicating my tag.  I checked the page full of tags using the Print Preview function and they looked great.  Imagine my surprise when I printed a whole sheet of tags that looked like this.

Black-Optimized

To diagnose the problem, I removed the texture from the tag and printed a single one and it looked like this.

GoodTest-Optimized

That told me that the use of the texture function was somehow to blame.  So I increased the size of the white background on the texture graphic (my PNG file) and added it back to the tag.  The next printout looked like this.

HalfTest-Optimized

I knew I was on the right track so I again increased the size of the white background on my graphic file and did another test which gave me the result I wanted.

Lesson learned:  the file used as texture in a shape needs to be as large as or larger than the shape itself.  I also realized that if I could see the grid lines on the mat inside of my tag shapes after I had added the texture, I was going to get black in those areas when I printed the tags.  This is only true when using the “Contrast” option in the “Mat Configuration”.  If using a color for your mat, you will always see the grid lines on top of your objects.

An alternative method of preventing the black fill is to create a background white rectangle larger than the whole group of objects as Sandy McCauley teaches in her tutorials.

A downloadable file for the tag shape can be found in the link below.

Cut Files Little Tag_JudyKay

 

 

 

 

Vintage Easter

 

My 15″ KNK Maxx Air plus my Make the Cut software make it so easy to create special cards for special occasions.  The Print and Cut feature in the Make the Cut software is one of my favorite features of that software.  I can take almost any image into the software and use the excellent tracing features to incorporate that image into my project.  For today’s post I chose a beautiful image of a vintage Easter post card which I found on the Graphic Fairy’s website.  This is how my Vintage Easter card looks.

Easter Card-Optimized

Materials Used:

Matte finish photo paper

Cardstock in yellow, light green, pink, and white

1/4″ double sided adhesive tape

Medium and dark chalk

Settings:

Machine – 15″ KNK Maxx Air

Blade – Red Cap (Standard Material)

Force – 50 – 65 for the cardstocks and the photo paper

Speed – 80 -100

After finally settling on the image that I wanted to use, I downloaded it, and created a rectangle with rounded corners the size I wanted for the image on the front of the card.  Then I added the image as a texture to that rectangle.  Next I created 3 shadow layers for that rectangle.  Each shadow layer is 5 mm larger than the previous one.  One last shadow layer was created, again at 5 mm larger than the last one.  The largest shadow layer was duplicated, moved next to the one from which it was duplicated and the two welded to create the card base.

The layer with the image was cut using the Print and Cut function.  All of the others were cut using the knife point function.

After the card was assembled with the double sided tape, the edges were chalked with the brown chalks to further enhance the vintage look.