Well hello there KNK-ers!
I seem to be on a banner kick, so I bring you yet another one.
These pictures are horrible. I totally procrastinated and it’s dark and believe it or not, I took these in my dim living room with no flash. I’m actually impressed with this little Canon camera I bought a couple months ago, and considering my lighting conditions are horrible, these pictures could be a lot worse.
DCWV thanksgiving/halloween stack
I used the leaves from the harvest designs and I ran them through the fiskers to give the leaves some texture and then inked them with some brown and green inks.
I wish I had prettier ribbon, but I didn’t have anything on hand, so I used jute.
Zing, red blade 10/10
Until next time!
Our little town does not have much to offer visitors. So when I saw that our local fish market had expanded and started selling items highlighting our area, I asked them if they’d like me to make up a few things for them to offer. I had made this file into a shirt for my husband last year using an inkjet transfer. I decided it would do well on a flour sack towel with a few changes. This time I used Heat Transfer Vinyl.
I recently purchased a KNK Zing Orbit and am now using Sure Cuts Alot. Being accustomed to Make The Cut, there has been a small learning curve, but for basic cutting I was able to get right at it with no problems.
- ThermoFlex Plus
- Flour sack Towel (I purchased mine at Walmart)
- Red-Capped Blade
- Iron or Heatpress
Settings on Zing Orbit with SCAL:
- Pressure: 50
- Speed: 15
- Overcut: 1mm
- Multi-cut: Off
- Open or import file in SCAL
- Reverse design
- Cut design and weed
- Set heat press at 335 degrees and press for 17 minutes (for hand iron, refer to manufacturer’s instructions)
- Fold towel in half and crease mid-point using iron or heat press
- Lay towel flat and use crease to place center HTV
- Press vinyl onto towel (Use teflon sheet or towel between iron and vinyl)
- Remove clear backing and repeat
I am having fun getting to know my Zing Orbit. So far, one of my favorite features on the Orbit is the ability to adjust the pinch wheels. The ability to move them close enough to cut small pieces of vinyl without using a mat saves me a lot of time, and I find myself using the feature a lot.
Completed Print and Cut Locket
These little magnetic lockets are so fun and there are so many things you can do with them. I created this Print and Cut Locket using my KNK Zing and an illustration I drew. You could also use a photo, and charms can be inserted as well. I used permanent vinyl to add the word “Michigan” to the exterior glass.
- Magnetic Locket (Can be found at most craft stores)
- High quality paper or printable vinyl
- Make the Cut, or similar software
- Red Capped Blade
- KNK Zing (or other KNK cutter)
- Scrap of vinyl
- Low Adhesive Cutting Mat
Settings for KNK Zing:
- Force – 40
- Multicut – 1 or 2
- Speed – 10
- Trace your design.
- Draw a Circle and place it on the layer below your design. Make the circle the exact size you need to fit inside the locket.
- Size the design so that the portion you want to show fits within the circle.
- Marquee select the two and join (ctrl j).
- Keep selected and break apart (ctrl b).
- Drag the original design away and delete, or move to another layer and turn off/lock.
- Duplicate if you want the same design on the front and back sides of the locket.
- Print out your design for a print and cut. Make sure you print the registration marks. ( I used paper for mine, but a printable vinyl would work better if you want to be able to put items in the locket without scratching the design.)
- Now you are ready to complete your print and cut. Adhere to a not-too-sticky mat and complete the cut.
- Carefully remove the cut circles from the mat and gently push into locket.
- If desired, cut text for outside of locket.
Here is the other side of the locket. I actually prefer the side without the gems, but perhaps I’ll turn it if I want to wear it with a dressy outfit sometime.
So my son just finished his first season of high school baseball. He did pretty good. He worked hard and I’m very proud of his mindset to keep trying, no matter what. He did not give up, even coming into the season recovering from a major broken wrist and being weak from a total of 11 weeks of some sort of cast.
Boy also grew 3 inches during the season and towers over me. Anyway, the parents wanted to give the coach a gift card and a signed card from the boys so I came up with this.
Originally it looked like this, but it just looked too plain, so I added the thanks in brannonball font. Looks baseball-ish, no?
The inside was blank and all the boys signed their names and gave it to the coach. I wasn’t able to get a picture of it all signed, but it was neat to give a personal something that I created that only took minutes to make.
I used: KNK Zing, red blade. Don’t even regard my settings. I need to change my blade again so I won’t even post them.
I have done etching on glass a few times, but wanted to see how it would work on ceramic. A few of these cute little ceramic jars have been sitting in my craft room since I found them on clearance a few years ago. The nice smooth surface provided just the canvas I needed to try out this project.
- Ceramic Jar
- Armour Etch Cream
- Gilders Paste Wax
- Vinyl for Stencil
- Transfer Tape
- Paint Brush
- Protective clothing, such as rubber gloves, goggles, apron
- Red Capped Blade
Setting for KNK Zing:
- Force – 18
- Speed – 10
- Multicut – 1
- Open or download design in cutter software.
- Load vinyl and cut stencil.
- Weed vinyl stencil.
- Apply transfer tape to vinyl, remove backing, and apply stencil to ceramic surface.
- Remove transfer tape.
- Use paint brush to apply etching cream liberally, being careful not to extend the cream beyond the edge of your stencil.
- Leave the cream on a few minutes. I left mine on about 3 minutes.
- Clean off thoroughly under running water.
- Peel off stencil and dry completely.the
- Use a rag to apply Gilders Wax to etched surface. Continue rubbing to remove from non-etched area. (The wax sets quickly, so I had best luck by removing excess wax as soon as possible. It can be removed later, but takes a lot more effort.)
I left the stencil in place while applying some of the wax, but it is not necessary.
I realized after I started the project that it was not a good idea to plan a two-color project where the two colors were directly adjacent to each other. It was very difficult to apply the end of the “green” stem within the red cherry portion of the design,
I also attempted this on a ceramic tile. It worked, but I wasn’t happy with the end result. The entire tile apparently was a little porous as I was not able to completely remove the excess wax from the surface of the tile. This might be remedied by leaving the stencil in place while applying the Gilders Wax. I may have to give it another try.