Fabric Tissue Box Cover – No Sew!

I received an email recently for a Cartonnage class – I hadn’t a clue what that meant so I googled it. During my perusal of the Google results, I saw these cute tissue box covers made from paper and decided to adapt them for a project that hadn’t been getting any steam. It was perfect timing! I wanted to make my daughter something both useful and nice with some fat quarters of fabric she picked out. This was just the inspiration I needed!

First, I created my design file in MTC. I made it for paper (hence the fold lines), but cut it from fabric.

I want the fabric to hold its shape, so I ironed a heavyweight fusible Pellon stabilizer to the back before cutting. Cutting was so easy! I ran three test cuts to make sure it was going all the way through the fabric and the stabilizer and then I was cutting away!

I learned to put the fabric side down on my sticky mat when the stabilizer left a lot of fuzz and thin layers of the material during the first go-round.

I put Aleene’s STOP Fraying around the tissue opening and let it dry. I covered the tissue box first. I wasn’t worried about the fabric not fitting tightly because the next layer would hide it.

For the ‘bottom’ piece, I ironed the ‘side’ flaps over and glued them with Aleene’s Fast Grab Tacky Glue. Then I put a ribbon around the shape and folded the outer flaps down over the ribbon and glued them down.

I pulled the ribbon tight and placed the tissue box inside it. By laying the box on its side I was able to pull the ribbon and fasten it in place without fighting over the longer side panels.

I placed another ribbon around the outside and tied the bow. Then, using steam from my iron I shaped the side panels so they’d puff out.

And voila!

Materials:

  • box of tissues
  • 18″ x 24″ fabric (two matching patterns)
  • matching ribbon
  • Pellon heavyweight fusible stabilizer
  • Aleene’s STOP Fraying
  • Aleene’s Fast Grab Tacky Glue
  • Fabric Blade (yellow cap)

Settings (Maxx Air):

  • f = 74
  • v = 200
  • p = 2

Steps:

  1. Iron the stabilizer to the fabric.
  2. Create or open the cut file.
  3. Using a sticky mat, brayer the fabric down so it is completely stuck to the mat.
  4. Cut the shapes from the stabilizer/fabric.
  5. Apply STOP Fraying to the tissue opening.
  6. Press flaps and folds with an iron.
  7. Cover the tissue box with the first layer and glue pieces together at the flaps.
  8. On the outer fabric cut, glue down the side flaps first.
  9. Insert a ribbon in the outer folds, and glue them down as well.
  10. Fold up the tissue box cover and pull the ribbon.
  11. Insert the tissue box, pull the ribbon tight and tie it.
  12. Tie another ribbon around the top rim of the tissue box.
  13. Use steam from the iron to shape the sides. Apply steam to each side, then set it upright to cool.

I wish I had some springtime fabric to cover all of our tissue boxes!

Orbit Meets Fabric

I am fortunate to have gotten to play with a new ZING ORBIT!!!  It is a great cutter and the improvements and new features make it a delight to use.  Of course, without the super manual by Sandy McCauley, I would have been lost.  Because of the nature of my job at Sew-Ciety, I have been test cutting fabrics to be used as appliques in quilting projects. The Orbit has performed flawlessly.  Any difficulties I’ve encountered have been due to the old bugaboo “Operator Error”.

Here is a sample of the testing that I have done most recently

Okay, you can ignore the large red rectangle on the upper left.  That was an additional piece of fabric that had been placed there in case my settings for a similar piece on the upper right weren’t working.

Materials Used:

Cotton Batik Fabric

Cotton Quilting Fabric

Cotton Flannel

Lite Steam-A-Seam 2

Settings:

Machine used:  KNK Zing Orbit , Blade:  Fabric Blade, Speed: 10, Blade Offset: 0.75, Height:  20 PIN

Cotton Batik Fabric:  Force:  60, Passes: 1

Cotton Quilting Fabric (Green): Force:  75,  Passes:  1

Cotton Quilting Fabric (Pink):  Force:  65,  Passes:  2

Cotton Flannel (Both colors):  Force:  70, Passes:  2

Additional Information:

This is what the fabrics looked like before I did any cutting so you can relate the settings to the fabrics.

All of the fabrics had Lite Steam-A-Seam fused to the wrong side prior to being placed on the mat.  The mat is new and the blade is new also.  I was pleased to see that the adhesive on the mat did not ‘bond’ with the Steam-A-Seam and pull the Steam-A-Seam off of the fabric after cutting.  It is necessary to be sure that the Steam-A-Seam is securely fused to the fabric before placing the fabric on the mat.

I wanted to see if it made any difference when cutting the cotton quilting fabrics (green & pink) whether I used more or less force and one or two passes.  In this instance it worked equally well.  The Cotton Batik cuts very easily and is thinner than the Cotton Quilting fabric so the blade length setting is important when cutting different types of fabric.  The Cotton Flannels are thicker and need a blade length adjustment also.

The sizes of the hearts are (smallest to largest) 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch, 3/4 inch, 1 inch, and 1 1/4 inches, and 1 1/2″ inches.  The stars are 1 inch.  I am intrigued that the 1/4″ hearts cut so perfectly.  That’s why I had to cut more of them up by the stars.

The other part of my testing was that I was cutting from Sure Cuts A Lot which, again, I would have been floundering without the excellent information and instruction from the User Manual by Sandy.  Thanks, Sandy, for all your help!!

 

 

amaZING!!

Today I had my first experience using a KNK Zing Air.  It is an amazing little machine!!  Recently there has been a surge of interest in using electronic cutters to cut fabric pieces for applique both for people who do hand applique and those who applique by machine.  The shop where I work has decided that the KNK Zing Air is the best cutter for the job.  (I might have had a bit of influence in the decision 🙂 ).  Friday two Zing Air cutters arrived at the shop.  Today (Sunday) one of them is helping me prepare my post.

A friend who works with us at the shop had a request to create an applique for a wall hanging she wants to create.  She explained her plan to me and provided a copy of a photo that was her inspiration.  I was able to use an existing file from the Make The Cut Gallery and node edit it so it resembled the photos.

Materials Used:

Cotton Quilting Fabric backed with Heat-N-Bond

Cotton Quilting Fabric backed with Steam-A-Seam Lite 2

Iron-on Heat Transfer Vinyl

Settings:

Machine Used:  KNK Zing Air

For Cotton Fabrics: Fabric blade, Speeds 11/15, Force 75, Multi 2, Offset .75, PIN 25

For Iron-on Heat Transfer Vinyl:  Red blade, Speeds 15/15, Force 30, Multi 1, Offset .25, PIN 25

optimized-skulls

Okay, skulls are not my thing, but—.  The request was for a 4″ high skull cut from fabric so it could be appliqued onto a base fabric.  The green one in the picture is about 3.5″ high because I forgot that the measurements in the bar in MTC also include the vector handles.  So I corrected the size before cutting the others.  The green one has Heat-N-Bond fused to the back of the fabric.  The two pieces did not get cut cleanly apart because the Zing mat was not sticky enough to hold the fabric in place while cutting.  The white one has Steam-A-Seam Lite 2 fused to the back of the fabric and the Steam-A-Seam itself is sticky so that stickiness, in addition to the adhesive on the mat, was successful in holding the fabric in place for a clean cut.  After seeing the amount of detail that would have to be dealt with in using this design for an applique, I thought that the Iron-on Heat Transfer Vinyl would be a better choice for the applique and it would not have to be stitched down.  The black glittery skull was cut from this vinyl.  And I did remember to mirror the image before cutting the vinyl since it is cut from the back side.

So now I know a little about the Zing and will be able to help customers as they expand their skills into our world of Klic-N-Kut.

Patchwork Valentine

One of the many things that I enjoy about  my 15″ KNK Maxx Air and the KNK Studio and Make the Cut software is that I can use them in combination with my other hobbies.  For my post today, I combined some sewing techniques with the capabilities of the KNK cutter and software. I created a Valentine card with a fabric patchwork heart and vinyl lettering on the front. CardFront-Optimized And a printed message on the inside. CardInside-Optimized Materials Used:

Five cotton quilting fabrics with Valentine prints

Muslin fabric

Steam-A-Seam 2 fusible web

Cardstock:  White, pink, dark chocolate brown

1/4″ Double sided adhesive tape

Fabri-Tac adhesive

Battilizer batting

Sheer Mesh cut away stabilizer

Various Embroidery threads for decorative stitching

Aleen’s Okay To Wash-It Adhesive

Settings:

Machine:  15″ KNK Maxx Air

Blades:  Fabric and Red Cap (standard materials)

Force:  Fabrics – 70, Cardstocks – 50 – 75, Vinyl – 13

Speed: 80 – 100

Instructions:

I began by tracing a heart shape I like and sizing to the dimensions I wanted for my finished patchwork heart in KNK Studio.  I then used the Ginsu Knife function to cut the heart shape into 5 pieces.  A copy of the uncut heart shape was resized to a smaller heart for the “backing heart” and a larger heart for the “background heart” using the Transform/Outline function.

Before cutting the fabrics for the heart pieces, the fabrics were pressed and the Steam-A-Seam 2 fused to the wrong side of the fabric.  The second piece of protective paper was removed from the Steam-A-Seam 2 and the wrong side of the fabric brayered to a very sticky mat for cutting.  The outer pieces of the patchwork heart had been enlarged on the outer edge to provide additional fabric for wrapping to the back.

Once the heart pieces were cut, they were assembled into a heart shape and fused to a piece of muslin.  To prepare the heart for decorative stitching, the fused pieced heart was layered on top of the Battilizer batting and the Sheer Mesh cut away stabilizer placed on the bottom of the stack. PiecesForStitching-Optimized Decorative stitches were selected and sewn over the “seams” in the patchwork heart. DecorativeStitching-Optimized The “backing heart” (smaller solid heart) was cut from white cardstock.  The backing heart was centered on the wrong side of the pieced and stitched heart.  The outline of the backing heart was traced on the sheet mesh stabilizer.  Small scissors were used to trim the stabilizer and batting on the marked line.  It was necessary to remove some of the decorative stitching to be able to trim the stabilizer and batting.  The “Okay To Wash-It” adhesive was used on the bobbin threads of the decorative stitches just inside the marked line to keep them from unraveling when the stitches outside of the line were trimmed.  “Fabric-Tac” adhesive was used to glue the backing heart to the wrong side of the heart unit. ReadyForFolding-Optimized Fabric-Tac was used to glue the fabric edge to the backing heart as the fabric was folded to the back. FoldedAndGlued-Optimized FinishedHeart-Optimized A “background heart” (larger solid heart) was cut from the brown cardstock.  The background heart was centered behind the completed patchwork heart and attached using double sided tape.

The card shown at the beginning of this post was created by folding an 8 1/2″ x 11″ piece of pink cardstock in half to form a top fold card.  The assembled patchwork heart and background heart were attached to the left side of the front of the card with double sided tape.  The words “Your Love” were cut from brown vinyl and placed on the right side of the front of the card.  The message for the inside of the card was printed using Microsoft Word and attached to the fold on the inside of the card with Fabri-Tac adhesive.  The font used for the card is Hancock.

Use the links below to download files for creating this card.  Enjoy!

Patchwork Valentine Cut Files_JudyKay

Iron-on Flock from KNK USA

Iron-on Flock is an amazing heat transfer vinyl that gives your project the look and feel of a rich, soft velvet. This particular vinyl product can be adhered to many fabrics including those with stretch characteristics like Lycra and Spandex. It has a very luxurious and long-lasting feel, and comes in many beautiful colors.

Iron-onFlockColorsWide

Like most iron-on vinyl, Iron-on Flock must be cut in reverse. To do this, reverse (flip) your design in the digital cutting software. Place the glossy side down on the mat, and cut on the dull side.

Cutting Iron-on Flock requires a thick materials (60°, blue cap) blade and a high pressure setting. Multiple passes will likely be required. Make test cuts to ensure proper settings for blade exposure, speed and force.

Iron-on Flock example

Iron-on Flock should be applied with a heat setting of 320-340° Fahrenheit for 10-15 seconds, using medium to firm pressure. Use a Teflon sheet to prevent damage to the design. The glossy carrier sheet should be peeled off when the vinyl is cooled. If the vinyl starts to come off with the carrier, simply increase pressure and reapply heat.Iron-on Flock Close-up

Unlike other heat transfer products, Iron-on Flock finished products can be washed and dried at medium temperatures.