Deco FILM® Paint FX


Cool weather is finally arriving in Florida and I wanted to embellish a long sleeve t-shirt for Thanksgiving Day. Finding fall colors this time of year is nearly impossible, everything is already Christmas in the stores! I did snag a lovely purple top and wanted something shimmery but not too sparkly for my design. Deco FILM® Paint FX was perfect! This heat transfer vinyl comes in six beautiful metallic colors. The effect is a soft shimmer. And it is thinner than regular HTV molding to the fabric, so the designs look screen painted rather than laying on the surface. Wish it came in all the colors!

Materials

Deco FILM® Paint FX  I used the Champagne color.

T-shirt

Maxx Air Settings

KNK Zing/Zing Air/Maxx Air Standard Material Detail Blade

Force = 42, Speed = 200, Blade Offset = .25, Blade Height = 25

Process Details

This vinyl cuts just like every other heat transfer vinyl, minimal blade exposure, mirror the design, weed the negative and carrier side adhered to the mat. The weeding was super easy, comes up cleanly and with little effort.

Heat press with a firm pressure at 310°F – 330°F for 17 to 20 seconds. Then remove carrier sheet while warm, and with a Teflon® or parchment paper covering the design, repress for 2 seconds.

Deco FILM® Paint FX is a great alternative to the glitter metallic heat transfer vinyl products, for when you want a subtler shimmer and shine. Love it!

PNC Pop-Ups

I think Print and Cut (PNC) is a very fun technique that can be used for a lot of different applications.  For today’s post I’ve combined it with another fun technique – Pop-Up cards.

I wanted to make a get well card for a dear friend who had just had surgery and one for an upcoming birthday.  The theme “Poppin’ In” was stuck in my brain.  I searched the internet for free pictures of popcorn and also of jack-in-the-box toys.  When I found several of each that I liked, I saved them.  Then I took them into the Make the Cut software and pixel traced them using the Texturize and Blackout functions.  I chose two different pictures so I would have different views for the front and inside of the cards.  Both of the images for each of the cards fit on a 5″ x 7″ piece of photo paper.  This picture shows the Jack-in-the-Box images on photo paper with the registration marks.

03-PNCReadyToCut-Optimized

This was loaded onto the mat, the mat inserted into my 15″ Maxx Air and the Print and Cut process was started.  As you can see in this next photo the position of the laser light needed to be adjusted so it was right on top of the registration mark.

04-LaserNeedsAdjusting-Optimized

Using the arrow keys on my keyboard I moved the mat so the laser light was covering the dot of the registration mark.  When I am looking at it with my eyes rather than through the camera as in the next photo, the laser light seems to be almost swallowed up when it is right over the black dot rather than the large red dot as in these two photos.

05-LaserSpotOn-Optimized

After cutting, the two pieces looked like this.

06-PNCCutOut-Optimized

Now it was time to prepare the card itself.  I wanted to have writing that looked nice on the front and inside of the card.  I put a felt tip pen in my Pen Tool, selected a font that I liked, changed the Plotting Defaults in my KNK Studio software to indicate that I was using a Pen instead of a Drag Knife and also selected Sign Blank in the Cut box.  Then I selected my text and sent it to the machine just as I would have for a cutting design.  It is very important that when you are performing multiple operations (writing, scoring, and cutting) on the same piece of cardstock that you use the Sign Blank option in KNK Studio or the WYSIWYG option in MTC to keep everything in its correct position.  This is a photo of the pen tool in action.

07-Writing-Optimized

Next I used my Embossing Tool – the smaller end – to score the fold lines for the Pop-Up mechanism on the inside piece of the card.  Finally, I inserted the blade holder with the blade, changed the Plotting Defaults/Tool to Drag Knife and cut the card pieces.

To cover up the hole created by the Pop-Up mechanism, a second piece of cardstock is used as the outside of the card.  On the portion that was to become the front of the card I used the Maxx to write more words on a separate piece of paper, used my sewing machine to attach that separate piece of paper to the cardstock and glued one of my PNC cutouts to the piece of paper.  When it was complete, the front of the card looked like this photo.

01-CardFront-Optimized

With the outer and inner parts of the card glued together, the Pop-Up mechanism looked like this.

08-Pop-UpMechanism-Optimized

You can see the hole that it created that needed to be covered up.  When gluing the inside and outside pieces together, take care to not get any glue on the Pop-Up mechanism.  This mechanism is offset from the center of the card due to the shape of the PNC piece that was attached to it.  The inside of the card when finished looked like this photo.

02-CardInside-Optimized

Since the little clown had his arms held out, I decided he could hold a sign for me.

The second card, the birthday card, was constructed in the same way.  The following two photos show the front and inside of the card.

PopcornFront-Optimized

PopcornInside-Optimized

The following settings were used in the making of these cards:

Cutting Cardstock:  KNK Studio Software, Plotting Defaults/Tool=Drag Knife, Plotting Defaults/Cut=Sign Blank, F=55, V=100, Red Blade, Blade Height=25 PIN

Cutting Photo Paper:  MTC Software, Cut Type= Print and Cut, Offset=0.75, F=98, V=55, Multi-Cut=2, Blue Blade, Blade Height=25 PIN

Writing with Pen:  KNK Studio Software, Plotting Defaults/Tool=Pen, Plotting Defaults/Cut=Sign Blank, F=3, V=175, Pen Tip- 1/8″ above paper

Scoring with Embossing Tool:  KNK Studio Software, Plotting Defaults/Tool=Pen, Plotting Defaults/Cut=Sign Blank, F=80, V=100, 2 Passes, Blade Height=25 PIN

Use the following link to download a basic Pop-Up card cutting file.

Pop-Up Card_JudyKay

To Dye For – Inkodye

 

KNKUSA recently introduced an exciting new product to their ever expanding line of Materials.  It is called Inkodye.  A liquid ink that is water based and develops it’s color permanently with exposure to sunlight.  You can read more about it and watch a video here.  At this time there are three colors – red, blue, and orange – plus a washing liquid available.  The supplier is working to expand the color range in the near future.  The colors can be mixed to create additional colors.

I have done a bit of experimenting with the ink using stencils made from various vinyls and a couple of rubber stamps on fabrics.  The vinyl I like using the most is the outdoor vinyl which you can get from KNKUSA. It has a “permanent aggressive” adhesive which means that it will stick to materials such as Tee shirts but it can be removed without damaging the shirt.

For today’s post I created a patriotic themed stencil, applied it to the shirt, painted on the Inkodye, exposed it to the sunlight, removed the stencil, and washed the shirt.  This is the result of that process.

ShirtFinished

I have always liked that phrase and decided it was just what I wanted for my shirt.

After deciding on the design, I created it in the Make The Cut software using the pixel trace feature and the Tekton Pro Ext font, and cut it as a stencil using the outdoor vinyl on my 15″ Maxx Air.  The line on the top of the eagle’s head was thickened by using a very small shadow layer which was then welded to the original image.

This is the completed stencil.  The vinyl was a light gray color.

Stencil

I had previously washed my shirt, being careful not to use any fabric softener which might inhibit the absorption of the dye, and ironed it so it would be smooth.  To stabilize the shirt front for the application of the dye, I have an old metal kitchen countertop saver board that I have covered with a plastic garbage bag.  I inserted that into the shirt and then wrapped and taped the shirt to the back so I had a flat surface on which to apply the stencil.  You could use a large piece of cardboard or thin wood covered with plastic also.

Because some of the letters had interior pieces that could easily get displaced when the backing was removed from the vinyl, I put transfer tape on the vinyl to hold them in place just as if I were transferring the design to the wall.  However, in this case I used the parts of the vinyl that would normally get weeded out if I were putting the design on a wall.

WTransferTape

I peeled the backing paper down from the top for about an inch and then starting applying the vinyl to the shirt, peeling the backing away and smoothing the vinyl onto the shirt from top to bottom.  Once the vinyl was in place and securely smoothed to the shirt – I used a brayer to help in that process – I removed the transfer tape and all of the pieces were in place.  To help protect the shirt in case of any splatters or other mishaps, I wrapped the exposed parts of the shirt in plastic and secured it to the edges of the vinyl stencil with wide blue painter’s tape.

ReadyToInk

Finally, I was ready to apply the ink.  The inks have a hint of color.  A couple of them are clear and one is milky but they work just the same.  I used a separate brush for each color and poured just a small amount of the inks into a small dish just before I was ready to use them.  Once the ink was applied, it looked like this.

InkApplied

Not much color at this point.  But once it was out in the sunlight it changed quite rapidly.

After one minute.

Time 2-04

After two minutes.

Time 2-05

It looked as if the red was going to end up being more pink than red and the blue was looking more like purple.  I decided that since it had only been exposed for a few minutes and the directions say 10 minutes or more, that I would just let it sit and see what happened.  Gradually the colors changed and became red and blue.  It took about 10 minutes and it wouldn’t have hurt to have left it longer except that I was anxious to see it finished.

I took it inside, un-taped and un-wrapped it being careful not to get ink from the stencil surface on the shirt, and washed it by hand according to the directions using the Inko Wash detergent.  I couldn’t resist taking a photo of it while it was still wet.

JustWashed

Once it was dry – okay, I admit, I hung it in front of a fan – I pressed it and took a close up photo of the completed design.

CloseUpFinished

I am really happy with how it turned out.  The ink is easy to use and it took less than a tablespoon of each ink for this design.

As a result of my experiments, I have made some mistakes so you wouldn’t have to.  To that end, I offer the following suggestions:

Use separate brushes for each color.  Keep a small glass of water to immediately wash brushes after applying the ink.  Protect all exposed parts of your shirt or other article to keep stray bits of ink off.  Wear old clothing and a plastic apron.  Make sure your plastic covered board goes under just the layer of fabric where you want the ink – not behind the front and back of the shirt.  Wash and iron fabric before applying ink.  Work in an area that is not exposed to sunlight.  Work on a protected surface.  Read and follow the directions.

To cut the vinyl on my Maxx Air I used the following settings: Force = 8, Velocity = 135, a red capped blade, blade offset = .35, no mat, and blade holder with collar sitting on top of blade clamp.

The eagle image I used was from an internet site.  The file, which you can download below, has an eagle from the Gallery in Make The Cut (#5955).

Home of the Free Cutting Files_Judy_Kay

Thanks, Chad! for a great new product!

Happy Birthday Dear Hazel

Last week Lynn K posted a beautiful easel card for a friend’s 75th birthday.  I have the good fortune to enjoy a friendship with both Lynn and the birthday lady, Hazel.  Last Sunday, Hazel’s daughter and family held a party in honor of Hazel’s birthday and I was able to attend and enjoy the celebration.  Because it was a special birthday, I wanted to make a card that was special.  I too, decided to use the theme of 75 but not in the same way that Lynn K did.

This is a photo of Hazel and the middle portion of her card.

HazelDearHazel

And here is Hazel (with some help from her daughter and my husband) with the entire card.

HazelLongCard As you can see it is a l-o-n-g card.  Seventy Five inches to be exact.  Also if you were to count the candle flames on the card – Yep! there are 75 of them!

It was a fun project with a few challenges.  So here is how it was constructed.

There are 9 panels that are connected with 1″  wide strips of organdy fabric.  The fabric is sandwiched in between the cardstock back and the cardstocks and papers on the face of the panels.  This photo shows that a space of about 1/16″ was left between the panels so the card would fold.

JoiningPanels

Once the panels were all joined into one long strip, the cardstock and paper parts of the card face were glued in place.  The card face consisted of a patterned paper for the background above the ‘cake’ and behind the candles, the cardstock ‘cake’, the cardstock icing strips, the layered cardstock letters (candles), and the cardstock candle flames.

1stPanelParts

This photo shows a close up of the completed first two panels.

CloseUpHB

It occurred to me as I was cutting the background paper pieces that because of the pattern in the paper, I would need to pay attention to where they cut so the pattern would line up when they were placed side by side on the card.  By using the “Page” mode in my KNK Studio software and resetting the origin on my KNK Maxx Air for each cut, I was able to successfully cut them so they matched.

The icing strips were drawn using the Pencil Tool in the KNK Studio software.  The ends of the strips were adjusted so they look as if they are continuous across the whole cake.  I didn’t find a font that worked the way I wanted for the wording so I again used the Pencil Tool in the KNK Studio software and drew my own letters.   Since there are more letters in “HAPPY BIRTHDAY DEAR HAZEL” than in “HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO YOU”, I needed to adjust the width of the wording on the center three panels to have it fit.  The letters are two layers of cardstock.  The layers were created by using the Transform/Inline tool in the KNK Studio software.  The candle flames were also drawn in the KNK Studio software using the pencil tool.

The ‘real’ gift was a gift card and I wanted to include a holder for it as part of the card.  I decided it would be fun if the gift card holder looked like a wrapped present.  I cut the basic holder from the same pink cardstock as the cake portion of the card.  Then I cut pieces of patterned paper so the present would looked wrapped and added ribbon pieces and a ribbon bow.  Lastly I added a set of pink Velcro pieces to hold the present closed.  The next three pictures show the inside, the back, and the closed gift card holder.

GiftCardHolderInside GiftCardHolderBack GiftCardHolderClosed

I took the photos right after I had glued the patterned paper to the cardstock and it wanted to curl.  After the glue dried, the gift card holder lay flat.

The gift card holder was glued to the last panel of the card.

PanelwGiftCardHolder

The card was now complete and opened up just fit on the coffee table in my living room.

Card-Whole

Now I only needed to create an envelope for the card and address the envelope.  I wanted the writing on the envelope to be very neat so I used my Zing Pen Tool with a Pilot Razor Point Liquid Ink Marker Pen to write Hazel’s name and her birthday address using the CAC Champagne font prior to cutting the envelope shape.  I like using the Page mode for cutting and decided to use it for writing the address also.  I knew about where the envelope would cut, determined the distance from the edges of the envelope to the bottom right hand corner of the address using the grid on the computer screen, placed two sticky notes so they formed a corner at that spot on the cardstock on the mat and set my origin there.  Since the envelope needed to be large, I couldn’t fit it on one piece of 12″ x 12″ cardstock and designed it in two pieces.  The open spaces in the letters were filled in with a Purple Star Gelly Roll pen.

EnvelopeParts

The envelope pieces were glued together and the card was folded.  The project was complete!

AllDone

The finishing touch was to add a ‘stamp’ from my Custom Stamps and Stickers post last month.

All of the cuts for this card were made on my 15″ KNK Maxx Air using a red tip blade and my KNK Studio software.

Cardstock was cut with a F = 55, V = 150, Blade Offset = 35, and a Blade Height = 25 PIN.  Some of the cardstock required 2 passes and others only one pass.

Scrapbook paper was cut with a F= 35, V = 150, Blade Offset = 35, and a Blade Height = 25 PIN using one pass.

The address was written with a F= 8, V =110, and the Cut/Plotting Defaults/Tool = Pen.

Files for this card can be downloaded using the links below.  Enjoy!

BDay Cake & Letters_JudyKay

Box Envelope_JudyKay

Gift Card Holder Present_JudyKay

 

Love a bit of Bling

KNKUSA has a new rhinestone product called Rock-It Rhinestone Flock.  It is black and feels almost like a very short velvet.  Sandy McCauley was very enthusastic about it and since I had gotten some in my bonus package with my Maxx Air, I decided that it would be perfect to use for my post this month.

I designed a rhinestone motif using the word “Love”.  Just to dress it up a little I replaced the “o” with  concentric hearts.  In the center of the hearts is a 5mm x 5mm heart shaped hot fix red rhinestone.  There are three hearts.  The outer one is crystal rhinestones, the center one is rose rhinestones, and the inner one is siam rhinestones.  The remainer of the word is also siam rhinestones.  I used 6SS rhinestones because I like the detail that I can get with the smaller stones.

Since this material was new to me, I cut a Rhinestone Sizing Template to determine the size I would need to make the circles for my 6ss rhinestones.  I found that a 2.8mm circle worked the best.  Once I knew that, I was ready to place the circles on my design using the Transform/Fit Object to Path function of my KNK Studio software.  I used the Loki Cola font and modified it a bit in addition to replacing the “o”.

To cut the Rock-It Rhinestone Flock, I removed the backing from the material and placed it, sticky side down, directly on my sticky mat.  I had tried cutting it with the backing in place, but found that I prefer removing the backing before cutting.  Since the Rock-It is repositionable, you can use the backing as your storage medium.  You do not need (or want) to stick it to a piece of cardboard.  In order to know which way to replace the backing on the Rock-it, I clipped off about 1/4″ of one corner of it and the backing before I pulled them apart.

I copied my design from KNK Studio and did a Paste in Place in the MTC software in order to cut it on my Maxx Air.  I used a blue blade (thick material blade) with 2 passes, a blade offset of 0.75, a speed of 200, a force of 70, and a blade height of 25 Post-It Notes.   After the Rock-It was cut, I brayered it on the mat (a suggestion from Sandy McCauley) before pulling it up and the majority of the circles stayed on the mat and were easily scraped off.

Even though I designed the template to be used with three different colors of rhinestones, I made the choice to cut only one template and to place the crystal and rose stones by hand since there were not very many of them and I was most likely not be going to fill the template more than a few times.

When the template was cut, placed back on the backing material, filled with rhinestones, and the design ironed onto my shirt, this is what it looks like.

Love Rhinestone Shirt

Love Rhinestone Shirt

Here is a close up of the rhinestone design which is difficult to get a good picture of.

Love Rhinestone Design

Love Rhinestone Design

The file for cutting the template in KNK, MTC, and PDF formats can be found here.   Love with Heart Cutter Files_JudyKay  Enjoy!