My husband and I love to fish. But when it comes time to haul in the big one, we seem to always be fumbling around for something to measure him with. So, a permanent fish ruler attached to the interior of the boat is just what we need.
- Outdoor permanent vinyl
- Clear Transfer Tape
- Red Capped Blade
Settings for KNK Zing:
- Force – 18
- Speed – 10
- Multicut – 1
- Design the fish ruler in MTC or other software. (If you import or copy and paste into your cutting software, MAKE SURE the dimensions stay correct. I learned this the hard way.)
- Cut and weed.
- Apply transfer tape.
- Clean area where fish ruler will be applied to boat, and let dry.
- Apply decal.
- Get the boat out of the garage and go fishing!
I was looking through my photos on my camera and came across this photo.
The story behind it is amazing. A young mom was on her way to work and her car slid off the road into the icy water. Another driver happened to witness it and stopped to help. The car had flipped so that it was upside down in the river, the mom trapped inside. 2 more cars stopped and in all 3 men, Hoppe, Effenberger, and Grover braved the cold water and worked for 20 minutes to free the young mom. Because it took so long to free her they were worried that although they had “saved” her she may end up having significant brain damage from lack of oxygen.The mom not only survive but had no significant damage. I wanted to do something to honor the 3 men but also to make something that would remind all 4 people involved of that day. Under each monogram letter and just above the full last name is the date 9.22.2015 as a subtle reminder of that blessed day.
12×12 ceramic tile from Home Depot
Clear transfer tape
15″ KNK Maxx
red capped blade
This was the Entrance banner decoration for a surprise birthday party that we threw for my mother. My mother turned 70 and we wanted to make something really special for her. I asked her for help to make the decoration but she did not know that she would be helping me with her own decoration, LOL. That was very funny and pretty ironic for a surprise birthday party hahaha.
In one of the prior post, I showed how to make the paper flowers to decorate any occasion. Here is the link with the step by step on how to make the paper flowers. In this post, I will show you how to make the banner that says Happy Birthday Zory.
Entrance banner decoration special Birthday Party
- First, I covered the Blank Coroplast sheet with white cardboard because the Blank Coroplast that I had available was yellow. So you can skip this step if your Blank Coroplast is the color that you want your final project to be.
- After that, with the tissue paper, I covered the bottom with one color and the top with another color of paper.
- Then, I measure the size of the Coroplast and I chose flowers from MTC Gallery to be cut out of Vinyl. On each flower, I wrote a letter of the name of my mother. I also wrote the word Happy Birthday to be cut out of Vinyl as well.
- Because I wanted to transfer those letters on top of tissue paper. I first took out a little bit of the adhesive of the transfer tape by putting a towel on top of the sticky side of the transfer paper.
- Then, carefully, I transferred everything onto the banner.
- Next, I glued some silk flowers to make the banner more attractive.
- Lastly, to complement the entrance, I drew and painted a butterfly on styrofoam
I love glitter heat transfer vinyl, such as GlitterFlex Ultra. It cuts great and looks beautiful on garments. And, it weeds great …as long as you are not cutting and weeding small pieces.
However, I often use GlitterFlex Ultra on baby bodysuits, (or even doll shirts… talk about teeny tiny pieces) which sometimes requires weeding very small areas. And, this is when I don’t love it quite so much!
GlitterFlex Ultra on Doll Shirt
It is difficult to see the cut lines on this vinyl. Additionally, it can be a bit “stretchy” when I am weeding around tiny pieces and sometimes pieces get stretched out of shape or accidentally broken off.
I love GlitterFlex Ultra too much to quit using it. But I’d also like to keep my sanity. So, I’ve done a little research and a lot of practice to figure out some tricks to make weeding easier. It’s not perfection, but certainly has made things less frustrating.
- I like to check my file to see if it needs any node editing, welding, etc. (I am not too fond of Make The Cut’s node editing feature, so I do most of that in Inkscape. However I do re-check and make final adjustments in MTC if needed.) Typically, I change the number and/or position of nodes before cutting, especially when working with fonts.
- Below is an example of something that can be easily adjusted. The “c” almost touches the “h”, but not quite. It will be easier to weed if they are welded. I could slightly shadow this and that would probably take care of it. Or, letters could be moved horizontally. But, since the other letters are already touching, I’d prefer to simply use the “handle” of the node to take the “end” of the “c” and stretch it into the “h” before welding the letters together.
- I have learned to take time to add weed lines. If I have an intricate design or text, I like to make a box or rectangle around it first. It works well to make the lines on or just outside of the bounding box.
- Next, I add more weed lines closer in. That way, if I’m having trouble seeing where lines are, at least I can weed out the outer portion, just inside the bounding box weed lines first. That gets me close to my design without having to worry about accidentally weeding out something that I didn’t intend to. Then I can really take my time and weed carefully as I work closer to the design. (I use an Xacto knife for weeding so I can always use that to make a few more weed lines manually while I’m actually doing the weeding.)
- It’s important to make sure settings are correct. Don’t give in to the temptation of giving too much blade exposure. GlitterFlex Ultra seems thicker than regular ThermoFlex Plus, for example. But I find that I can keep my exposure the same or very slightly increased. Too much blade has a tendency to lift tiny pieces on fonts. The font in the illustration above has a slight little curl on the top of the “C”, and it will lift up if the blade is out too much. Actually, that is usually my first clue that my blade exposure is excessive.
These are the settings that work best with my KNK Zing:
- Force – 50 – 60 (The manual says 30 – 40, but I found the higher force to be helpful. You will have to find what works best for you.)
- Speed – 10
- Multicut – 2
- Blade Height – About the same as used for regular vinyl, or very slightly more exposure. The manual suggests a height of 25 Post-It notes as a starting point.
- Blade – I use the blue blade. The manual suggests the red blade.
- Some have suggested rubbing baby powder over the cut lines to make them show up better. I didn’t have any baby powder so I tried corn starch, which did help a little bit.
- Another suggestion is to put the vinyl in the freezer for a bit after cutting. The cold causes the vinyl to shrink slightly, thereby making the cut lines more visible. This does help, but the trouble is that the vinyl warms back up very, very quickly. Especially so if there is a lamp illuminating the work area.
- Which brings me to…. by all means, if you don’t have good lighting and a magnifying glass, you must invest in both of those. Here is my set-up:
After trying all of these suggestions… and more. Here is what I found works for me.
- I put my vinyl in the freezer after cutting. How long? I think a half hour is about right. I actually left it for a couple of hours while we went to dinner. It was VERY stiff… too stiff. But, it was just fine in a few minutes anyway.
- Next, I use corn starch on it. It seems to help a little, especially after the vinyl has shrunk a bit in the freezer. It can be kind of messy. I sprinkle a little on a piece of paper and then dip my finger in it and rub it on the vinyl.
- The final piece of the puzzle that seems to make everything work is keeping the surface below the vinyl cold so that it doesn’t warm up too quickly. You can see in the photo above that I have a square piece of quartz countertop that I use as a surface when weeding. (It’s a sample from a cabinet shop.) I found if I put this in the refrigerator or freezer, it stays cold and keeps the vinyl cool while weeding. If I let it get super cold, it sweats as it warms up. But I didn’t find it to be a problem. I just wiped it off a couple of times. I believe a ceramic tile would work in place of the quartz.
With all of these steps in place, I must say that GlitterFlex Ultra still does not weed as easily as regular HTV, such as ThermoFlex Plus. But, it has made some of my projects go from being nearly impossible, to manageable. And since a couple of these are projects I do over and over, it has certainly made the experience much more enjoyable!
I have done etching on glass a few times, but wanted to see how it would work on ceramic. A few of these cute little ceramic jars have been sitting in my craft room since I found them on clearance a few years ago. The nice smooth surface provided just the canvas I needed to try out this project.
- Ceramic Jar
- Armour Etch Cream
- Gilders Paste Wax
- Vinyl for Stencil
- Transfer Tape
- Paint Brush
- Protective clothing, such as rubber gloves, goggles, apron
- Red Capped Blade
Setting for KNK Zing:
- Force – 18
- Speed – 10
- Multicut – 1
- Open or download design in cutter software.
- Load vinyl and cut stencil.
- Weed vinyl stencil.
- Apply transfer tape to vinyl, remove backing, and apply stencil to ceramic surface.
- Remove transfer tape.
- Use paint brush to apply etching cream liberally, being careful not to extend the cream beyond the edge of your stencil.
- Leave the cream on a few minutes. I left mine on about 3 minutes.
- Clean off thoroughly under running water.
- Peel off stencil and dry completely.the
- Use a rag to apply Gilders Wax to etched surface. Continue rubbing to remove from non-etched area. (The wax sets quickly, so I had best luck by removing excess wax as soon as possible. It can be removed later, but takes a lot more effort.)
I left the stencil in place while applying some of the wax, but it is not necessary.
I realized after I started the project that it was not a good idea to plan a two-color project where the two colors were directly adjacent to each other. It was very difficult to apply the end of the “green” stem within the red cherry portion of the design,
I also attempted this on a ceramic tile. It worked, but I wasn’t happy with the end result. The entire tile apparently was a little porous as I was not able to completely remove the excess wax from the surface of the tile. This might be remedied by leaving the stencil in place while applying the Gilders Wax. I may have to give it another try.