Print and Cut Locket – KNK Zing Print and Cut – KNK Cutter and Jewelry – Magnetic Locket

Completed Print and Cut Locket

These little magnetic lockets are so fun and there are so many things you can do with them. I created this Print and Cut Locket using my KNK Zing and an illustration I drew. You could also use a photo, and charms can be inserted as well. I used permanent vinyl to add the word “Michigan” to the exterior glass.

Materials:

  • Magnetic Locket (Can be found at most craft stores)
  • High quality paper or printable vinyl
  • Make the Cut, or similar software
  • Red Capped Blade
  • KNK Zing (or other KNK cutter)
  • Scrap of vinyl
  • Low Adhesive Cutting Mat

Settings for KNK Zing:

  • Force – 40
  • Multicut – 1 or 2
  • Speed – 10

Steps:

Illustration for Print and Cut Locket

  • Trace your design.
  • Draw a Circle and place it on the layer below your design. Make the circle the exact size you need to fit inside the locket.
  • Size the design so that the portion you want to show fits within the circle.
  • Marquee select the two and join (ctrl j).

Create a Print and Cut Locket

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Keep selected and break apart (ctrl b).

Print and Cut Locket design in a circle

 

 

 

 

 

  • Drag the original design away and delete, or move to another layer and turn off/lock.
  • Duplicate if you want the same design on the front and back sides of the locket.
  • Print out your design for a print and cut. Make sure you print the registration marks. ( I used paper for mine, but a printable vinyl would work better if you want to be able to put items in the locket without scratching the design.)
  • Now you are ready to complete your print and cut. Adhere to a not-too-sticky mat and complete the cut.
  • Carefully remove the cut circles from the mat and gently push into locket.
  • If desired, cut text for outside of locket.

Print and Cut locket with Gems

Here is the other side of the locket. I actually prefer the side without the gems, but perhaps I’ll turn it if I want to wear it with a dressy outfit sometime.

 

Cutlery pocket – Free File for the 4th of July: Show off your Red, White and Blue!

Cutlery pocket – Free File for the 4th of July!

I love the holidays and getting together with family and friends. My mom bought a lake house last fall where we get together at every opportunity (and now I don’t have to clean my house before and after every gathering!). Mom LOVES to decorate for the holidays. She usually is totally over the top! I’m helping out this coming holiday with homemade decorations because she doesn’t have much for this particular celebration.

Making life easier

Since we grab our food from the kitchen and head back outdoors whenever the weather is fair, I thought it would be nice to create some cutlery pockets to make the task easier (especially for the wee ones!) I love using the WorldWin ColorMates Smooth & Silky for this project, but any heavy card stock will work.

This is an emboss and cut project created in MTC:

One side will hold a napkin and the other side will hold the cutlery.

Materials:

Settings (Maxx Air):

  • f = 82
  • v = 200
  • p = 1

Steps:

  1. Open the Cutlery Pocket file.
  2. Insert embossing tool (or use the blade with the lowest setting to just score the surface of your card stock).
  3. If using the embossing tool, be sure to set the offset to -0-.
  4. Hide the cut lines layer and send the emboss lines to the cutter.
  5. Once that is complete, hide the emboss lines and show the cut lines.
  6. Remove embossing tool and insert blade holder. Be sure to set the correct offset for the blade you are using.
  7. Test cut a small shape outside of the design area.
  8. Cut the pocket and remove from mat.
  9. Fold at emboss lines, apply adhesive and attach one flap to the ‘front’ and the other flap to the ‘back’ of the center piece.
  10. Fill with a napkin and cutlery.
  11. Save all of the cut out stars for table confetti.

Download the Cutlery Pocket file here.

For the bottle, see Memorial Day Table Topper (Free File)

For the banner, see Banner for Independence Day – Free File from Team KNK

The Iron Throne

When I envisioned this quilt, The Iron Throne, I knew I would use my KNK Maxx Air cutting machine to cut the intricate appliqué out of heat transfer vinyl. What I did not guess is how many other things I would make to help me bring The Iron Throne to life.

Last month I shared the longarm ruler I made, Need a Special Longarm Ruler? No Problem! . Here are the other items I made to assist me in the construction of this quilt.

Cutting Template to ensure each diamond block was exactly the same size. I used Grafix Craft Plastic .020 mm to make the template and included registration marks to help be line it up. I included a cut out in the center so that the quilted appliqué would not distort the template when used.

Fabric! I wanted to include a flange border in the binding of each diamond and I did not have any fabric that I was happy with to match the colors. So, I made my own fabric by cutting strips of the same heat transfer vinyl I used in the appliqués and fused it to muslin. Now I had the perfect color flanges to inset into my binding.

Sword Marking Templates to mark my quilting lines on the leather corners of the quilt for the swords that make up The Iron Throne. Quilters template plastic was used for these templates.

Hole Marking Guides to accurately and evenly mark where the holes needed to be punched for the installation of the grommets. I first made one specifically for the diamonds and then refined it to a multi-use tool for future projects. I used a quilters plastic template material for these guides.

My cutting machine has become a valuable tool in my quilting studio to create original art!

Materials

KNK Zing/Zing Air/Maxx Air Standard Material Detail Blade

KNK Zing/Zing Air 12″ x 12″ Extra Sticky Mat Set (Green Grid)

Engraving Tool

Grafix Craft Plastic .020 mm

EZ Quilting Thick Template Plastic

 

Maxx Air Settings

Text – Sharpie Ultra Fine

Force = 5, Speed = 350, Passes = 1, Blade Height = 13+, Blade Offset = 0

Cut Settings for Grafix Craft Plastic

Red Blade, Force = 190, Speed = 300, Passes = 3, Blade Height = 25Blade Offset = .25

Cut Settings for Quilters Template Plastic

Red Blade, Force = 130, Speed = 80, Passes = 3, Blade Height = 25, Blade Offset = .25

Engraving Tool, Force = 135, Speed = 350, Passes = 4, Blade Offset = 0,

Blade Height = 25

Baseball card

So my son just finished his first season of high school baseball. He did pretty good. He worked hard and I’m very proud of his mindset to keep trying, no matter what. He did not give up, even coming into the season recovering from a major broken wrist and being weak from a total of 11 weeks of some sort of cast.

Boy also grew 3 inches during the season and towers over me. Anyway, the parents wanted to give the coach a gift card and a signed card from the boys so I came up with this.

Originally it looked like this, but it just looked too plain, so I added the thanks in brannonball font. Looks baseball-ish, no?

The inside was blank and all the boys signed their names and gave it to the coach. I wasn’t able to get a picture of it all signed, but it was neat to give a personal something that I created that only took minutes to make.

I used: KNK Zing, red blade. Don’t even regard my settings. I need to change my blade again so I won’t even post them.

 

MTC Pixel Trace

In recent posts I’ve talked about using KNK cutters to cut fabrics for use in sewing machine applique projects.  This time I thought I’d do a brief explanation of how I use MTC Pixel Trace to get from a piece of paper with an image on it to the files I use to cut the fabric pieces.

The first step is to scan the image into the computer.  If you don’t have a scanner, you could take a photo of the image and transfer it to your computer.  I prefer to use a scanner because then I know that my scanned image is the same size as the original printed image.  Once the image is scanned, it can be saved as a raster file such as a JPG, a BMP, or a PNG for example.  Remember to keep track of where you have the file saved on your computer.

The next step is to open the file in the Pixel Trace function of MTC.  There are many options available in the Pixel Trace function that affect the success or failure of the trace. For example:  I had this image that I wanted to cut the pieces for use in a small wall hanging. (It doesn’t matter if you are preparing an image to be used to cut fabric or cardstock or both – the process is the same).  Here is the image I was working with

I wanted the center spiral to be red, the background of the spiral to be white, the inner ring to be green and the outer ring to be red.  Yes, the center looks like a peppermint candy.

I opened the image in the MTC Pixel Trace function.  Using the default settings this is what I saw:

The green circles indicate two areas where the lines are incomplete.  By increasing the Threshold to 200, the lines were now complete.  Remember to click on “Apply Changes” every time you change one of the values.

I Imported this version of the trace and proceeded to process it to create the separate parts I wanted.

First I selected the whole image.  Pixel Trace imports the whole image as one item.  Then I used the Break function to separate all of the parts.

It may be difficult to see but each piece of the image has a dotted line around it and the center of each of those pieces is indicated by a cross.  Notice that the computer has much more discerning “eyes” than we humans do and has traced each side of the lines of the image.  

In this case this works to my favor.  Since I want to separate the parts out, I can use one side of the traced line for one part and the other side of a different part.  I want the center spiral to be my first part placed on a circular background.  Thus I don’t need the curved wedge shaped pieces in between the legs of the spiral.  I can select the unwanted pieces and delete them.

While my spiral is selected, I can put it on it’s own layer and put that layer “to sleep” to more easily work with the other layers.

Then I can select each of the successive circles, putting them each on their own layer until I have the three different circles that I want  for my project.  There will be some lines that I do not use and will delete when I have created the layers that I want.  When there are two lines (the two from both sides of the original lines) I will usually pick the larger one and delete the smaller one.

When I have the layers I want and have changed the colors of the layers to reflect my color choices, I will order the layers so they are in sequence with the smallest on the top.  I chose to make the white, green, and red “rings” as complete circles rather than rings to avoid the possibility of spaces in between the rings.  This is what my completed file looks like.

That image was very easy to process.  Unfortunately, there are other images that require a bit more manipulation in order to get a file ready for cutting.  MTC has a large tool box of functions that will allow you to process most of the images you want to cut.  Here are a couple of examples of tools that you might find useful.

When this image was traced there was an internal part that needed to be dealt with.  The image was Broken and one of each of the outside and inside lines were selected and deleted.

That left two images that would have cut okay but could be problematic if they were moved or otherwise manipulated without making sure that both parts were selected.  The two pieces were selected and the Join function used to make them into one piece.

Images without internal parts can be traced without having two lines to deal with by using the Blackout feature in the Pixel Trace window.  For example

You can see that the blackout function ignores anything inside of the various images.  But for those images that are solid, it is a great option.  For the image that has an inside shape, it isn’t what you want to use.

There is another option for items that are traced and have the two lines like below

The item can be selected (without it being broken apart) and the Thin Paths function applied.

This will crate a new shape whose line is between the two traced lines.  More like a line you would draw if you were tracing the shape with a pencil.

Occasionally you will find drawings where the parts have gotten joined when the image is traced.  In the instance above you could break apart the traced images and if the inside lines were smaller than what you wanted you could add a shadow layer of any thickness  you want to increase the size.

This by no means covers the whole magical function of MTC’s Pixel Trace.  For that you need to refer to Sandy McCauley’s excellent manuals which cover all of the tools in Pixel Trace in depth.