To Dye For – Inkodye

 

KNKUSA recently introduced an exciting new product to their ever expanding line of Materials.  It is called Inkodye.  A liquid ink that is water based and develops it’s color permanently with exposure to sunlight.  You can read more about it and watch a video here.  At this time there are three colors – red, blue, and orange – plus a washing liquid available.  The supplier is working to expand the color range in the near future.  The colors can be mixed to create additional colors.

I have done a bit of experimenting with the ink using stencils made from various vinyls and a couple of rubber stamps on fabrics.  The vinyl I like using the most is the outdoor vinyl which you can get from KNKUSA. It has a “permanent aggressive” adhesive which means that it will stick to materials such as Tee shirts but it can be removed without damaging the shirt.

For today’s post I created a patriotic themed stencil, applied it to the shirt, painted on the Inkodye, exposed it to the sunlight, removed the stencil, and washed the shirt.  This is the result of that process.

ShirtFinished

I have always liked that phrase and decided it was just what I wanted for my shirt.

After deciding on the design, I created it in the Make The Cut software using the pixel trace feature and the Tekton Pro Ext font, and cut it as a stencil using the outdoor vinyl on my 15″ Maxx Air.  The line on the top of the eagle’s head was thickened by using a very small shadow layer which was then welded to the original image.

This is the completed stencil.  The vinyl was a light gray color.

Stencil

I had previously washed my shirt, being careful not to use any fabric softener which might inhibit the absorption of the dye, and ironed it so it would be smooth.  To stabilize the shirt front for the application of the dye, I have an old metal kitchen countertop saver board that I have covered with a plastic garbage bag.  I inserted that into the shirt and then wrapped and taped the shirt to the back so I had a flat surface on which to apply the stencil.  You could use a large piece of cardboard or thin wood covered with plastic also.

Because some of the letters had interior pieces that could easily get displaced when the backing was removed from the vinyl, I put transfer tape on the vinyl to hold them in place just as if I were transferring the design to the wall.  However, in this case I used the parts of the vinyl that would normally get weeded out if I were putting the design on a wall.

WTransferTape

I peeled the backing paper down from the top for about an inch and then starting applying the vinyl to the shirt, peeling the backing away and smoothing the vinyl onto the shirt from top to bottom.  Once the vinyl was in place and securely smoothed to the shirt – I used a brayer to help in that process – I removed the transfer tape and all of the pieces were in place.  To help protect the shirt in case of any splatters or other mishaps, I wrapped the exposed parts of the shirt in plastic and secured it to the edges of the vinyl stencil with wide blue painter’s tape.

ReadyToInk

Finally, I was ready to apply the ink.  The inks have a hint of color.  A couple of them are clear and one is milky but they work just the same.  I used a separate brush for each color and poured just a small amount of the inks into a small dish just before I was ready to use them.  Once the ink was applied, it looked like this.

InkApplied

Not much color at this point.  But once it was out in the sunlight it changed quite rapidly.

After one minute.

Time 2-04

After two minutes.

Time 2-05

It looked as if the red was going to end up being more pink than red and the blue was looking more like purple.  I decided that since it had only been exposed for a few minutes and the directions say 10 minutes or more, that I would just let it sit and see what happened.  Gradually the colors changed and became red and blue.  It took about 10 minutes and it wouldn’t have hurt to have left it longer except that I was anxious to see it finished.

I took it inside, un-taped and un-wrapped it being careful not to get ink from the stencil surface on the shirt, and washed it by hand according to the directions using the Inko Wash detergent.  I couldn’t resist taking a photo of it while it was still wet.

JustWashed

Once it was dry – okay, I admit, I hung it in front of a fan – I pressed it and took a close up photo of the completed design.

CloseUpFinished

I am really happy with how it turned out.  The ink is easy to use and it took less than a tablespoon of each ink for this design.

As a result of my experiments, I have made some mistakes so you wouldn’t have to.  To that end, I offer the following suggestions:

Use separate brushes for each color.  Keep a small glass of water to immediately wash brushes after applying the ink.  Protect all exposed parts of your shirt or other article to keep stray bits of ink off.  Wear old clothing and a plastic apron.  Make sure your plastic covered board goes under just the layer of fabric where you want the ink – not behind the front and back of the shirt.  Wash and iron fabric before applying ink.  Work in an area that is not exposed to sunlight.  Work on a protected surface.  Read and follow the directions.

To cut the vinyl on my Maxx Air I used the following settings: Force = 8, Velocity = 135, a red capped blade, blade offset = .35, no mat, and blade holder with collar sitting on top of blade clamp.

The eagle image I used was from an internet site.  The file, which you can download below, has an eagle from the Gallery in Make The Cut (#5955).

Home of the Free Cutting Files_Judy_Kay

Thanks, Chad! for a great new product!

Setting up the New Maxx Air – Free Label File

I didn’t get any projects done this week – I was anxiously awaiting my new Maxx Air, which arrived on Friday, then setting it up, then playing/playing/more playing and never getting around to FINISHING A DARN THING! I stayed with it all Friday evening- calibrating, cutting chipboard (it cut like butter), and so on but then the outdoor work took me away for the rest of the weekend. Boo hoo!

Nevertheless, I thought I could share with you my shortcut to efficiency. I keep several blade and blade holders at the ready. Its easier and quicker for me to leave them set for a specific material and swap out the whole assembly (since I’m not good at keeping my eyeglasses nearby and can’t really see the blade tip without them). I’ve labeled the blade holders with vinyl as shown in the photo. I have 2 specialty tools for engraving and embossing, a fabric blade, 3 standard blades set for different materials, and a thick material blade set for chipboard. Click on the photo below to download the free file. I included a blank in the file – in case you want to label yours differently. The measurements are a perfect fit to wrap around the blade holders. Note:  The engraving tool is a different diameter at the top than the others.

MaxxAir 009sm

I don’t keep them exactly like this picture though – because I might accidentally chip a blade tip. I keep them in the plastic case they came in, with the colored blade cover (cushioning the blade tip at the bottom of the case) and o-ring spacers (so I don’t have to go looking for them). I also have a few spare spacers on the right side of the control panel. BladeHolderStorage_sm You may notice that the front table and the bar where my blade holders sit look different. Space is limited, so I use this front table for multiple things, like prepping the mats for the Zing or the Maxx, or braying material to the mat. I covered these parts with glass etch vinyl – so I can see through it, but the cutter is protected from my haste or general clumsiness!

I truly LOVE this machine and I’m so glad I decided to upgrade! I wish the retreat were closer to me so I could bring it with me to the Light Your Fire with KNK Retreat in August!

Happy Pop’s Day?!?

 

IMG_0690 (1)

WELCOME and thank you for stopping by TeamKNK! Today’s tutorial is brought to you by Tammy from Beyond Measure.

Todays’ feature is a Pop-up Father’s Day card. Tammy combined two different pop up card mechanisms for a fun ‘tada!’ effect upon opening the card:)  The card was created in the amaZing  Make the Cut Software and cut on the over the top KNK Zing electronic cutting machine. Be sure to watch the video to check out the two pop up features inside the card!

Here’s the link to the Team KNK Pop up card video tutorial! Enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2emVnsTAWzM

And here is a link to the cutting file for the card: Father Day’s pop up card in MTC, KNK, PDF, and SVG formats

Thank you so very much for stopping by–we hope to see you here again! The Make the Cut pop up  mechanism file is post below. :) Until next time…HUGE {{{HUGS}}} and be blessed

 

Canada Day Decorations

One of my clients had seen this design on the Web and asked if I could recreate it for him in the form of vinyl sheets so he could use them on his store windows for Canada Day this year.

Canada-Day-ideas(pp_w515_h675) This was very simple to recreate with MTC because I really only needed to trace the maple leaf. I thought I would take the design a bit further and made something he could sell in his store.

I had seen lots of nice designs with vinyl on chargers and decided this might do well.

Here is the design I came up with for him.

2013-06-11 07.20.27 pm Cut out of bright red vinyl on a silver charger, it looks quite stunning.

IMG_3721 Canada Day will be on July 1. Happy early Canada Day!!!

 

 

HIP HIP HOORAY! FOR THE U.S.A.

This is the time of year that I often reflect on how happy I am to live in the U.S.A.   My plate stand was “calling” for a new plate for the season.  So for Memorial Day I created this plate, which will probably reside in the stand through the summer because I think it’s also very appropriate for the 4th of July and maybe even Labor Day, too.

Optimized-EaglePlate_1 Supplies:

The vinyl was cut on my 15″ KNK Maxx Air using a Red Tip Blade and my Make-the-Cut Software, Settings used were: F=28, Blade Offset = 35, Blade Height = 25 Post-It-Notes, Cut type = Knife Point.

The challenge for embellishing a plate with vinyl is usually in the placement, not the cutting. The following pictures illustrate my method of getting the vinyl exactly where I want it on the plate.

1. After cutting and weeding the vinyl, I cover it with Transfer Tape.  Next I cut away the tape that extends beyond the design, so I can visually see how it is going to fit and look when applied to the plate. Optimized-EaglePlate_2

2. The next step is to turn the masked vinyl over and turn down approximately 1″ of the vinyl liner at the top. Turn the vinyl back over with the right side up, and place the sticky side of the vinyl to the plate, matching the placement that I determined in the previous step.

Optimized-EaglePlate_3 3.  Now that the top edge is secured to the plate, I use one hand to slowly apply the vinyl, using a firm flat object for a secure, flat application without bubbles. At the same time with the other hand I pull on the vinyl liner, exposing more of the sticky side of the vinyl.

Optimized-EaglePlate_4 4. The final step for the center design is to remove the transfer tape.  I find it works best to pull it away at approximately a 45 degree angle.  The picture that follows is a close-up of the center design.

Optimized-EaglePlate_6

The last thing to do is apply the stars around the edge.  For equal spacing I made a stencil so I could mark placement with a Sharpie. This template is included in the free files of this design.  With the plate marked, placement of the stars is easy…and you have a finished plate to enjoy for years to come.

Optimized-EaglePlate_5

While still in a patriotic mood I saw these cute little patriotic owls on the Pink Pueblo website.  I fell in love with them and immediately set about deciding what to put them on.  I settled on a tray that is 19″ wide by 8″ tall. The inside measurement is 16″ x 5″.  The owl with the flag and the one with the hat are scaled to be 4.5″ tall.

Optimized-Tray_1

Before actually looking at the cutting design I thought I would cut them from vinyl.   But when I looked at the cut design—that thought was out of the question because there were way too many pieces, as well as lots of layering.  So I settled on cardstock for everything but the stars and the saying on the bottom, which I cut from vinyl.

Vinyl Settings used were: F=28, Blade Offset = 35, Blade Height = 25 Post-It-Notes, Cut type = Knife Point.

Cardstock Settings used were: F=55, Blade Offset = 35, Blade Height = 25 Post-It-Notes, Cut type = Knife Point

The biggest change that I made to the design was to add a base file to adhere all the other pieces to.  It was a big missing piece in the files, but was remedied easily with my Make-the-Cut software.

I was totally wowed at the stars on the flag.  There are 50 of them, measuring .06″ each.  If I hadn’t cut and applied them, I would have never known how big .06″ is.  For perspective I photographed it with a penny. Aren’t they wonderful?  I love my KNK for the detail options it gives us.

Optimized-Tray_2

Before gluing them to the tray, I sprayed them with an acrylic sealer.

Eagle_wSoldiers-Lynn_K

 

Simple Thanks

Now is the season of weddings, graduations, transitions.  Giving gifts.  Sending thank you cards (if you have been schooled in politeness).  Why do so many thank you cards have to be bland and innocuous?

These are the thoughts that were running through my head when I designed this simple thank you card for an elementary school teacher.  Rather than give an end of year gift that might get re-gifted or take up space, we gave these cards, which will get put to good use.

Each  card uses two half sheets of different colored paper.  I used simple card stock and vellum for these.  Only one piece, the outside,  gets run through the cutter, the inside is blank and easiest to cut on a paper cutter and run through your score tool.

The design shown below is very simple.  But you can embellish by using different fonts, designs and papers.  Just make sure your papers are of similar weights.  This can be really fun if your outer paper has coordinating designs printed on both sides!  Remember to keep the inner paper solid, so that it can be written on.

finished-front

Here is how to make one.

First, figure out your card’s size.  I made mine from half sheets.  To have overlap on each side in different colors I made the outside of my card with the cut design 1 inch shorter than the back of the card.  I made the inner solid piece  1 inch shorter in the back.   Here’s the math:

  • total card was 51/2 wide by 4 1/4 tall
  •  each sheet was a total of 5 1/2 x 7 1/4
  •  Outside that was die cut was 3″ in the front and 4 1/4 in the back
  • Inside that is blank was 4 1/4 in front, and 3″ in back
  • Glued together, total card was 5 1/2 by 4 1/4 tall

Begin by designing your outside using the dimensions above, or something equivalent.  Design the front of your card first.  It will look best if you make an irregular edge as it will be shown off against the inner paper.  In my case, I repeated the wave motif.  If you add text, be sure to “stencil” it so that you don’t loose your inner shapes.  Next, measure up about 1/4 inch from the bottom of your outer back piece, and type your message (I used the teacher’s name).  Make this about 1/2 inch tall.  Flip the text so that when you fold it in half, the text will read properly.  You should have 1/4″ margin above the text message (or design, it doesn’t have to be text) once you place the inner sheet in place.

outer

Cut and score your inner solid (non-cut) sheet.  You DO NOT need to score your outer sheet.  Next you put spray adhesive on the wrong side of the outer sheet.  Lay your outer sheet with the bottom message side correctly facing up.  Using a piece of waste paper (boy, don’t we have a lot of that!) cover the message along the bottom to just a 1/2″ above to make sure that no spray adhesive adheres to it.  Spray rest of sheet with adhesive.  Remove waste paper.  Take the inner sheet, and lay the 3″ side just 1/4″ above the bottom message section of your outer sheet and match edges.  Your inner sheet will extend beyond the front section of your outer sheet by 1″.  Brayer.

card

Using your score mark from your inner sheet, carefully fold your card.  The outer sheet will naturally follow.

both

Have left over “waste”?  Don’t let it go to waste!  Make some other cards with it.

two

Mini Notebook and Stamp

Printable Vynil, Cover Book, KNK,

Printable Vynil

I was wondering what to make as a party favor but, at the same time, keeping it personalized and different. Because I LOVE the printable vinyl that knkusa.com has, I decided to make some Mini Notebooks. The combination of the chipboard and the printable vinyl from knkusa.com are TERRIFIC. The printable vinyl sticks really well to the chipboard.

Materials:

KNK Cutter Machine, chipboard, printable vinyl, copy paper, and any way of binding. I used the Bind-It-All machine.

To make the Mini Notebook, I cut the cover of the Notebook with my KNK cutter machine (attached there is a template). Then, I just designed the cover and printed it on my inkjet printer. (Note that a laser printer maybe too hot for the printable vinyl). Next, I cut the copy paper to size to make the pages of the notebook. Finally, I used the Bind-It-All machine to bind it all together. If you do not have one, you can click here and follow the easy steps on “How to bind a book”. In the template that I made, I included the spine of the book cover.

mask book cover in mask book cover ins

 

 

 

 

mask book cover
I covered the inside of the cover with the remain of the printable vinyl

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Your Own Stamp

Stamp, KNK

Fun Foam Stamp

The KNK machines are so AWESOME that I use my machine to make my own stamps. This stamp was made out of Fun Foam and it is very simple to make.

Materials:

KNK Cutter Machine, MTC, Fun Foam, glue, and clear block

The mask is a file from MTC Software. Just cut the file twice, glue them together, and place on a clear block with double tape adhesive. Ready to use!

And the result:

mask stamp result

 

The free template file for the notebook is available here: Notebook Template in KNK, MTC, and SVG file formats.