Name banner

I’m so embarrassed. For one, I was supposed to post last Friday. I made this project three weeks ago and was so excited that I had my project done already… and then forgot to post it. My excuses get worse: I took pictures of it and can’t find them anywhere!! The only picture I have is horrible and it isn’t even finished here. I since added to the blank square. So on Monday, when I go to school, I will take pictures of it and get a nicer shot of it.

This even has my dog’s foot in it because she decided to back into the picture, but I was able to crop that part out.

Anyway, I wanted a banner to hang in front of my desk, so I used the chipboard from the KNK store and cut it into 4″ squares. And since it is 12×12, you get 9 squares from a sheet, (did I do that math right, because I’ve since learned I’m not smarter than a 5th grader in math), and look at that, my name and a blank square is perfect for this so I only used 1 sheet. I like this chipboard as it is very sturdy, but also very easy to trim. I haven’t tried cutting it on my Zing, but I’m sure it would do just fine. I glued 4×4 sheets of a pretty damask paper I found from my DCWV stash and cut the letters out of DCWV red glitter paper. It is glittery, I promise. I made the letters a little big, I should’ve made them about 3″ and I made them about 3.5.” I had to “smoosh” the M’s or they didn’t fit. I also didn’t center them on the squares because I was debating having the ribbon go across the top, but I ended up going behind the squares. I inked the edges with black ink (as well as my fingers… and some of the table), and used foam tape to stick the letters on. Then I cut holes in the top and threaded the ribbon through. The other version I saw of this had ribbon bows tying each square together and I think I should’ve done that instead, but it’s fine the way it looks.

Since the panda is our mascot, I used print and cut to cut him out and I used foam tape to stick him in the middle. As I said before, I’ll get a better picture of the finished project and you’ll even see my messy desk! Bonus! I have it taped it front of my desk and since I was new to the school, it was a nice way to announce myself and a pretty way to dress up my desk.

Teaching 5th grade is really fun! It’s really hard work, but I’m really enjoying it and I absolutely love my new school. I promise I’ll be on time next month!

Machine used: Zing, red blade, 10/10, 105 (don’t use my settings, I am very lazy about changing blades)

Materials: KNK chipboard, DCWV paper, foam tape, black ink pad.

It’s back to school time!

It has been so many years since the bus stopped at our house but it is still an exciting time of year for so many families. I have one mom who has asked me to make plaques for many of the special events in her son’s life. This year it was for the first day of kindergarten.

Materials

Wood plaque

Spray paint

vinyl

clear transfer tape

Settings

15″ KNK MAXX

red capped blade

Force 36

Speed 450

 

Because of the number of colors involved I use small rectangles as registration marks so that when they are placed directly on top of the coordinating set everything lines up perfectly. Sorry, they are a little hard to see. If you use the arrange/array feature in KNK Studio it lines up the rectangles perfectly for you.

Last Minute Initials Wedding Glasses Using Sensitive Pressure Vinyl


Last Minute Initials Wedding Glasses This was a Last Minute Initials Wedding Glasses for a couple that had forgotten their wedding glasses. My sister-in-law asked me to do it the same day of the wedding. So the fastest thing that I could do was their initials inside a heart.

The wedding was simple but Beautiful.

Materials:

Settings:

  • F = 45 (I have cut this material before with a F=25. This time I had to use F=45. Remember that there are going to be things that can affect the Force and the cut, like the dull of the blade, the mat, etc. So just use this as a guide)
  • V = 100

Instructions:

  1. Using MTC, I choose a heart from this software and with the Rhinestones icon made the circles on the Pressure Sensitive Vinyl.
  2. Then, I wrote their initials inside the heart. When I was happy with the result, I cut it with my KNK Groove-2.
  3. After weeding it, I placed masking tape on top to transfer the project to the glasses
  4. Next, I put a Rhinestone and the bottom end of the heart (the point).
  5. And finally, I made bows to use as an embellishment.

 

PS: The couples in the picture are me and my husband when we got married in 1990. I just put that candle there to take the picture.

3D Thanksgiving Card – 3D Card with KNK Zing – Card with Acetate Window

3D Thanksgiving CardI make floating Christmas ornaments to sell in craft shows and through a local shop. To make the inside, I adhere a vinyl design to a piece of acetate (overhead transparency). I decided it would be fun to make a greeting card using the same process. This time though, I used 3 sheets of transparency and placed portions of the design on each. By creating it in this way, it gave it a 3D effect.

Materials:

  1. Intermediate Vinyl
  2. Mylar, acetate, or other transparent plastic sheet
  3. White Cardstock
  4. Scrapbook Tape
  5. 3M (or similar) foam tape
  6. Red Capped Blade
  7. Zing Orbit

Machine Settings for Zing Orbit and Scal:

  1. Cutting Card stock: Pressure – 56, Speed – 12, Multi-Cut – 2
  2. Cutting Vinyl – Pressure – 50, Speed – 16, Multi-Cut – Off
  3. Cutting Transparency – I cut this on my original Zing with MTC: Force 120, Speed 11, Multi-cut – 3

Steps:

  1. If you want to have something printed on the card, do that first. If you plan to use PNC, make sure to print your registration marks. Of course, it would be fine to simply cut by hand as well.
  2. Cut the card stock window panes. For this I first cut a 5″ X 7″ rectangle, then 4 smaller rectangles from that.
  3. Cut 3 pieces of transparency. You’ll need them to be just a little smaller than your card size, but big enough so the edges will be under the window frame. Leave enough room along the edge for scrapbook tape to stick to the edges. (See
  4. Cut out the vinyl for your design. Decide which portions need to be in the background, and which in the foreground.
  5. Adhere vinyl to transparencies. Stack them carefully on the card, and on each 3D Thanksgiving Cardother, as you build your design so that you are lining things up properly.
  6. Use small pieces of foam tape between transparencies, hidden under the vinyl, to build up the design and hold it together.
  7. Stick the double-sided tape to the backside outer edges of the window frame. Carefully adhere to your card, being sure to line up carefully. If you have cut your transparencies small enough, this should hold all pieces together.

I am pretty happy with how this turned out. It might be easier next time to cut the window panes out of the front of the card. This way I could place the transparencies behind the cut-out. I would then need to line the card (or just the back side of the card front) to enclose the layers.

There are no mistakes, just experiments!

Life is full of experiments, not mistakes. This holds true especially when you are embarking on a cutting project with new-to-you materials. All the material setting charts, tips and tricks are but starting points on your artistic journey. To be successful with your machine, you must give yourself permission to make a few mistakes and use up some material to get the best results. Today’s project was a prime example of this truth and here is the tale of my journey.

The Project

My daughter is a new theatre teacher and she wanted some unique and durable hall passes for her students. She initially thought of laminated cardstock passes that would be hung from a lanyard. I designed a playful twist on the iconic Playbill magazine for her hall pass. Time spent = 3 hours

Version 1 – Printed on cardstock and laminated was the easiest, but the least durable. The thinner the cardstock, the less rigid the pass. Thicker cardstock did not seal well along the edges of the lamination. Time spent = 1 hour

Version 2

Base

    • Decided to use a plastic for the pass base and adhere the design to it. The pass needed to be double sided with a white base, but where to get a suitable plastic sheet material in one day? (did I mention I only had a weekend to produce this?) After stops in 4 stores both hobby and home improvement, I resigned myself to a For Sale sign from Lowes. The plastic is rigid but not too thick to be cut with my cutter. Problem was there is only a 5” x 20” space of white on the sign, so there is a great deal of waste. (I may be able to use the leftovers in another project that is one sided.) Time spent shopping = 4 hours.
    • I have since found several sources for this plastic, white ASA Styrene, online. Mainly from model building companies.
    • This plastic was a breeze to cut on my KNK Maxx Air. Time spent cutting = 1 hour.

Design Layer

  • Any material I printed the design on would need to be water and smudge resistant. I had found some Silhouette Clear Sticker Paper and some Water Slip Decal paper that was ink jet printable last time I cleaned my office, so I thought I would try them. Both materials printed nice and bright, cutting however proved to be a bear. The clear sticker paper was thick, more like a craft plastic instead of a vinyl. I started with a vinyl cut setting and eventually worked my way up to the same settings I use for .007 craft plastic. A range of force from 42 to 140. The decal paper was a little easier, but still much more force and blade exposure than I anticipated. Time spent = 3 hours and double the materials needed.
  • After adhering these units to the base they needed to be water proofed. The decal paper came with its own special spray, which did not spray so I tossed that material. For the clear sticker paper, this meant the arduous process of spraying several light coats of clear epoxy on both sides and waiting 30 mins in between each coat to dry. I confess I am not very good at spray painting, too much and it runs, too little and no coverage. I was not pleased with the results. Time spent = 3 hours

Version 3

    • There has got to be a better way that takes less time and no waterproofing! Woke up the next day and started over. Sent husband to the store for more plastic and tested more materials. Then it hit me, Ink Jet Transparency film. A material that is not commonly seen in stores anymore since the rise of digital projection, but still available. I have quite the inventory of it as it makes great fussy cutting templates for quilt piecing units.
    • You print in reverse on the treated side of the transparency, so the ink is protected by the plastic. Flipped my Print and Cut project and cut using the same settings as I do for thin .007 craft plastic.
    • Since the transparency is crystal clear with no backing sheet, you need to slip a white piece of paper underneath your mat to be able to see the registration marks for the Print and Cut process.

  • After cutting, I ran the cut shapes through my Xyron sticker machine to apply permanent adhesive on the back of the units.
  • Adhered to the plastic bases, making sure to brayer and squeegee any air bubbles out. Time spent = 3 hours

 

I spent a total of 15 hours over 2 days on this project. I went through 2 -3 times more material than what was needed for the actual end product. Seems excessive for such a simple thing, right? But that whole time, I was learning about new materials and machine settings, problem solving until I had a product that I know will stand up to daily use.

And that is how it is in life, you learn by doing, to not try or give up at the first setback means you never get anywhere or achieve your dreams. So, don’t fear your machine. Keep trying and testing, give yourself permission to make mistakes, because they are just experiments, not failures!

 

Materials

ASA Styrene Sheet – I used the For Sale sign, but blank sheets can be sourced online. White Styrene Sheets .020

KNK Zing/Zing Air/Maxx Air Standard Material Detail Blade

HP Premium Inkjet Transparency Film

Xyron Sticker Machine

 

Maxx Air Settings

Force = 125, Speed = 300, Passes = 1, Blade Height = 25